Home » Home Improvement » Home Improvement Ideas

How to Install Siding Shingles: Step-by-Step Guide for a Lasting Exterior

Precision in layout, nailing, and finishing creates a durable, weather-resistant facade.

By Medha deb

Created on Sep 26, 2025

Precision in layout, nailing, and finishing creates a durable, weather-resistant facade.

How to Install Siding Shingles: Your Complete Exterior DIY Guide

Siding shingles are a popular exterior finish for homes, offering timeless charm, outstanding durability, and natural resistance to the elements. Whether made of cedar, fiber cement, or engineered composites, shingle siding can dramatically transform your home’s curb appeal. This guide gives you everything you need to confidently install siding shingles yourself, from planning and preparing the walls, to mounting each row with lasting precision.

What Are Siding Shingles?

Siding shingles are thin, tapered pieces of material installed in overlapping rows to clad the exterior walls of a building. Traditionally made from western red cedar, recent innovations have introduced fiber-cement and engineered options that offer even more resilience and design flexibility. Shingle siding differs from shakes in that shingles are sawn for a smoother, uniform look, while shakes are split for a rougher, more rustic texture.

Cedar shingles: Renowned for natural beauty and resistance to decay.
Fiber-cement shingles: Mimic wood grain and are highly resilient to fire and pests.
Engineered/composite shingles: Blend wood fibers and resins for stability and low maintenance.

Materials and Tools Required

Before starting your project, gather all necessary materials and tools. Having everything on hand ensures a smooth installation process and reduces downtime.

Cedar, fiber cement, or composite shingles (preprimed or unfinished as preferred)
Furring strips (if required by material type)
House wrap or building paper for moisture barrier
Galvanized or stainless ring-shank siding nails (or staples when recommended)
Level and chalk line
Caulk (for specific trims and finishing)
Hammer, nail gun, or pneumatic stapler (as advised by shingle manufacturer)
Tape measure
Utility knife or tin snips (for trimming shingles)
Circular saw (for cutting multiple shingles)
Caulking gun
Ladder and safety equipment
Story pole (for marking exposures and reference lines)

Step 1: Prepare the Walls

Proper preparation is essential for a long-lasting, weatherproof shingle installation. The following steps ensure the substrate is even, secure, and protected from moisture.

Inspect sheathing: Repair any uneven or damaged sheathing and ensure the surface is clean and dry.
Add a moisture barrier: Install house wrap or building felt over the entire siding surface to protect the framing from rain and leaks.
Attach furring strips: For wood siding, staple vertical wood or composite furring strips spaced about every 16 inches, ensuring a 1-inch gap every 4 feet for drainage and ventilation. Fiber-cement and engineered shingles often permit direct application to sheathing but consult the manufacturer’s specifications.
Install flashing: Flash around windows, doors, and horizontal intersections to direct water away from critical areas.
Mark vertical reference lines: Use a level or plumb bob to establish vertical reference lines at corners and every 4 to 6 feet to keep rows straight and true across the wall.

Step 2: Plan the Layout and Exposure

Exposure refers to the visible portion of each shingle course after overlapping the row beneath. Calculating exposure ensures uniform appearance and reliable weather protection.

Standard exposure for cedar shingles is 5 to 6 inches, while fiber-cement panels may allow up to 7 inches. Always verify with your shingle’s manufacturer.
Use a story pole: Mark exposure intervals on a long piece of wood to act as a portable reference as you ascend each course.
Check for even course heights from bottom to the top of the wall, adjusting lower course exposures marginally if necessary to avoid narrow strips at the roofline or window tops.

Shingle Type	Common Exposure	Fastener Type
Cedar	5 – 6 inches	Stainless steel nails
Fiber-cement	6 – 7 inches	Galvanized or coated nails
Composite/Engineered	Follow manufacturer	Stainless or specialty

Step 3: Install Starter Course

The starter course consists of a narrow strip (1¼ inches to 1½ inches wide) of siding installed at the lowest edge of the wall. This piece ensures the first row of visible shingles angles downward for proper water runoff and provides a solid base for the first full shingle course.

Attach the starter strip tightly along the base of the wall using corrosion-resistant nails. Leave a ¼ inch gap from decks, steps, or masonry for drainage.
For double-coverage systems, install an undercourse of cut shingles directly above the starter strip. The first visible shingle course will then overlap this undercourse by the calculated exposure.

Step 4: Apply the First Course of Shingles

Begin at the lowest edge of the wall, typically starting at an outside corner or the edge of a door or window trim. Proceed horizontally, adjusting each shingle for correct joint spacing and vertical alignment.

Spacing: Leave a 1/8 to 1/4 inch space between adjacent shingles to allow for wood expansion (and as specified by fiber-cement manufacturers).
Offset vertical joints by at least 1½ inches from the underlying course.
Nailing: Place two fasteners per shingle, approximately 3/4 inch in from each edge and 1 inch above the butt line of the row above (for double-coverage systems). For wider shingles, use three fasteners as needed to prevent buckling.
Drive nails flush so shingle can move slightly with wood expansion or contraction.

Step 5: Continue Installing Courses

Build additional rows by repeating the process, using your story pole to maintain consistent exposure heights. It’s critical that shingle joints do not align from course to course to avoid moisture penetration. Maintain this staggered, brick-like pattern up the wall.

Reset the shingle rack (if using) to the story-pole marks for each new course. Position shingles to offset joints at least 1½ inches as you go.
At corners, use corner boards or weave shingles according to your aesthetic preference and design requirements.
Cut shingles flush with the end of the wall, abutting neatly into trim or neighboring surfaces.
As you approach windows, doors, or rooflines, measure and plan ahead so no course is left excessively narrow.

Step 6: Trim, Finish, and Maintain

Finishing touches protect your work and enhance the home’s finished look:

Apply sealant at joints where shingles meet corner boards, trim, or flashings—do not caulk horizontal overlaps between shingles as this can trap moisture.
Prime and paint or stain cedar shingles for increased durability, unless using prefinished or naturally weathering materials.
For fiber-cement shingles, follow manufacturer recommendations for edge sealing and painting.

Corner Treatments

The way you finish corners can greatly influence both appearance and water resistance.

Corner boards: Install wide, painted or stained trim boards at outside angles. Butt the ends of each course’s shingles into the boards, leaving a small gap for caulk.
Woven corners: Alternate shingle courses from each wall so they overlap each other at the corner for a craftsman-like look. This method is typically suited to cedar shingles.

Pro Tips for a Professional Finish

Keep shingle joints at least 1½ inches from the joints in the row below for maximum weather protection.
Use a shingle gauge or rack to keep each course straight and evenly spaced.
Order 10-15% more shingles than the wall’s calculated square footage to account for cutting, customization, and waste.
Always start new courses at the edge or near corners and trim as needed to ensure a balanced look.
Wear safety goggles and gloves when cutting or installing shingles—especially fiber-cement brands.
Work in dry weather and avoid installing wood shingles immediately after rain or heavy dew, as damp wood can swell, leading to buckling when it dries.

Frequently Asked Questions (FAQs)

Q: What is the difference between shingles and shakes for siding?

A: Shingles are sawn for uniform thickness and a smooth surface, while shakes are split from the log, producing a rougher, more rustic finish. Both provide effective exterior protection but offer distinct aesthetic effects.

Q: Can I install siding shingles directly over old siding?

A: Generally, it’s best to remove old siding and inspect the sheathing for integrity and weather resistance. Installing over existing siding can trap moisture and may void manufacturer warranties. For some applications, engineered panels allow direct installation with certain precautions—always follow manufacturer instructions.

Q: Do cedar shingles need to be painted or stained?

A: Untreated cedar shingles gradually weather to a silver-gray patina. Painting, staining, or applying a clear finish will help preserve the wood’s appearance, block UV rays, and extend lifespan, but is optional based on aesthetic preference.

Q: How long does siding shingle installation typically take?

A: Installing siding shingles on an average-sized house typically takes several days for a professional crew, or up to a week or more for DIYers, depending on home size, complexity, materials, and weather conditions.

Q: How often should I inspect or maintain siding shingles?

A: Annual inspection is recommended: look for signs of shifting, cracking, lifted nails, or insect infestation. Clean off dirt and moss, and touch up paint or sealant as necessary to keep your siding in prime condition.

Safety, Building Codes, and Manufacturer Guidance

Always comply with local building codes and review the manufacturer’s installation guide for product-specific requirements. Use ladders and power tools according to safety recommendations, and wear protective equipment as needed.

Final Thoughts: Enhancing Your Home with Siding Shingles

With careful planning and precise installation, siding shingles deliver enduring beauty and increased protection for your home. Their timeless look complements classic and modern architecture alike. Whether you opt for the natural warmth of cedar or the engineered durability of fiber-cement options, investing in quality materials and craftsmanship ensures your home’s exterior stays gorgeous for decades to come.

References

Author

medha deb

Medha Deb is an editor with a master's degree in Applied Linguistics from the University of Hyderabad. She believes that her qualification has helped her develop a deep understanding of language and its application in various contexts.

Read full bio of medha deb