Holes In Rose Leaves: 4 Common Causes & Solutions
Identify and effectively treat the culprits damaging your beautiful rose foliage

Image: HearthJunction Design Team
Roses With Holes in Their Leaves: Identifying the Problem
Growing roses can be one of the most rewarding experiences for gardeners, but discovering holes in your rose leaves can quickly turn that joy into concern. These unsightly damages not only affect the beauty of your roses but can also impact the overall health of your plants if left untreated. Understanding what’s causing these holes is the first step toward effective treatment and prevention.
Rose leaves with holes are typically a sign of pest activity rather than disease. Unlike fungal or bacterial issues that create spots or discoloration, holes indicate that something is physically consuming your plant’s foliage. The pattern, size, and location of these holes can help you identify exactly which culprit you’re dealing with.
Common Causes of Holes in Rose Leaves
Rose Slugs: The Primary Culprits
Despite their name, rose slugs aren’t actually slugs at all. They’re the larvae of sawflies, small wasp-like insects that lay their eggs on rose leaves. These larvae, also called “Rose Slugs,” are one of the most common causes of holes in rose foliage and can cause significant damage if not addressed promptly.
Rose slugs have some distinctive characteristics that can help you identify them:
- They’re small, lime-green caterpillar-like creatures that blend in with the leaf
- They create two types of damage: complete holes through the leaf and “windowpane” damage where only the bottom layer is eaten
- The windowpane damage appears as light brown spots that are often mistaken for disease
- They feed primarily during spring and early summer
Left unchecked, these tiny pests can defoliate and potentially kill your rose bushes. The damage begins as the young larvae can only eat part of the leaf thickness, creating the translucent “windows,” but as they grow, they consume entire sections of the leaf.
Snails and Slugs: Nighttime Raiders
Another common culprit behind holes in rose leaves are actual snails and slugs. Unlike rose slugs, these mollusks are not selective to roses but will happily feast on them if given the opportunity. They typically feed at night or on cloudy days, which is why gardeners often miss seeing them in action.
Signs that snails or slugs are damaging your roses include:
- Large, irregular holes throughout the entire leaf
- A silvery slime trail left on leaves or the ground nearby
- Damage that seems to appear overnight
- Affected leaves often at lower parts of the plant
These pests thrive in moist conditions and are particularly problematic after rainy periods or in gardens with heavy mulch and dense plantings that provide daytime hiding spots.
Japanese Beetles: Voracious Feeders
Japanese beetles are another significant threat to rose foliage. These iridescent, copper-colored beetles are easily identifiable and feed in groups, which can lead to rapid and extensive damage.
When Japanese beetles attack roses, they typically:
- Create skeletonized leaves by eating the tissue between leaf veins
- Feed from the top of the leaf rather than the underside
- Target both foliage and flowers
- Appear most commonly in mid-summer
Unlike some other pests, Japanese beetles are visible during the day and can often be spotted in groups, making them easier to identify but potentially more destructive due to their numbers.
Leafcutter Bees: Precision Cutters
Leafcutter bees create a very distinctive type of damage that’s often confused with other pest issues. These beneficial insects cut perfect semicircular or circular pieces from leaf edges, which they use to line their nests.
The damage from leafcutter bees is characterized by:
- Clean, precise circular or semicircular cuts along leaf edges
- No feeding damage to the interior of the leaf
- Usually limited damage that doesn’t significantly harm the plant
While the damage may be unsightly, it’s important to note that leafcutter bees are valuable pollinators, and their activity doesn’t typically threaten the health of your roses.
Effective Solutions for Protecting Your Roses
Controlling Rose Slugs
Once you’ve identified rose slugs as the source of your leaf holes, there are several effective methods to control them:
Manual Removal: For small infestations, inspect the undersides of leaves and manually remove the larvae. This can be an effective first line of defense if you catch the problem early.
Water Spray: A strong blast of water from a hose can dislodge rose slugs from the leaves. This simple method works best in the morning so leaves have time to dry before evening, reducing the risk of fungal diseases.
Insecticidal Soap: These organic products are effective against rose slugs while being gentler on beneficial insects. Apply directly to the affected leaves, making sure to coat the undersides where the larvae typically feed.
Neem Oil: This natural insecticide disrupts the life cycle of many pests, including rose slugs. It’s most effective when applied early in the infestation and reapplied regularly as directed.
Spinosad Products: Derived from soil bacteria, spinosad is effective against sawfly larvae while having minimal impact on many beneficial insects when used as directed.
Battling Snails and Slugs
For snails and slugs damaging your roses, consider these control methods:
Beer Traps: Place shallow containers of beer at soil level near affected roses. The yeast attracts snails and slugs, which fall in and drown. Any type of beer works for this purpose.
Copper Barriers: Copper strips or tape create a barrier that snails and slugs won’t cross. Place these around individual plants or garden beds for protection.
Diatomaceous Earth: This powder creates a barrier that cuts and dehydrates slugs and snails when they attempt to cross it. Reapply after rain or heavy dew.
Iron Phosphate Baits: These commercial products are effective against snails and slugs while being safer for use around pets and wildlife than traditional metaldehyde baits.
Cultural Controls: Reduce hiding places by keeping the garden tidy, removing debris, and creating space between plants to improve air circulation and reduce moisture.
Managing Japanese Beetles
To control Japanese beetle damage on your roses:
Hand-picking: In the early morning when beetles are sluggish, knock them into a bucket of soapy water. This can significantly reduce populations in small gardens.
Row Covers: During peak beetle season, lightweight row covers can physically prevent beetles from reaching your roses while still allowing light and water to penetrate.
Neem Oil: Acts as both a repellent and growth regulator for Japanese beetles. Apply to roses before beetles appear and reapply according to product directions.
Beneficial Nematodes: These microscopic organisms can be applied to soil to control the grub stage of Japanese beetles, reducing future adult populations.
Living with Leafcutter Bees
Since leafcutter bees are beneficial pollinators and their damage is usually cosmetic:
Toleration: The best approach is often to simply accept the minor damage they cause in exchange for their pollination services.
Alternative Plants: If you want to divert them from prized roses, plant sacrificial plants they prefer, such as redbud trees or certain types of lilac.
Preventative Measures for Healthy Roses
Prevention is always better than cure when it comes to protecting your roses from leaf-eating pests. Implementing these practices can help keep your roses healthy and more resistant to damage:
Proper Planting Techniques
Starting with proper planting creates stronger, more resilient roses that can better withstand pest pressure. When planting roses:
Dig an irregular or “ugly” hole about 6-8 inches deeper and as wide as the container your plant came in. The irregular shape with fissures and tunnels makes it easier for rose roots to expand outward and access nutrients.
For bare root roses, ensure the hole is 6-8 inches beyond the root depth. When placing the rose in the hole, make sure the roots face downward and the canes stay upright.
Bury the bud union (the knuckle-like growth at the base) in the soil. This prevents wind-rock that can destabilize the plant, stops sucker canes from developing on grafted roses, and protects against die-back during freezing temperatures.
Backfill with a 50-50 mix of organic compost and soil, tamping gently and watering thoroughly. Add 3-4 inches of mulch around the base to conserve moisture and stabilize soil temperature.
Regular Maintenance Practices
Consistent care throughout the growing season helps keep roses strong and less susceptible to pest damage:
Inspection: Make it a habit to check the undersides of leaves regularly for eggs or early signs of feeding damage. Early detection leads to easier control.
Proper Watering: Water at the base of plants rather than overhead to keep foliage dry and less attractive to pests. Morning watering allows any splashed leaves to dry quickly.
Good Air Circulation: Proper pruning and spacing between plants improves air flow, reducing humidity that attracts many pests.
Clean Garden Practices: Remove fallen leaves and debris regularly, especially at the end of the growing season, to eliminate overwintering sites for many pests.
Encouraging Natural Predators
Creating a garden that welcomes beneficial insects and other natural predators can provide ongoing, natural pest control:
Beneficial Insects: Attract ladybugs, lacewings, and parasitic wasps by planting diverse flowering plants that provide nectar and pollen.
Bird Habitat: Install birdbaths and feeding stations to encourage insect-eating birds to visit your garden regularly.
Avoid Broad-Spectrum Pesticides: These kill beneficial insects along with pests, potentially creating worse problems in the long run.
Frequently Asked Questions (FAQs)
Q: Can diseased roses recover from severe leaf damage?
A: Yes, roses are generally resilient plants that can recover from significant leaf damage. Remove severely affected leaves, implement appropriate pest control methods, and provide proper care including adequate water and nutrients. Most roses will produce new growth and can fully recover by the following season, though severe infestations left untreated may weaken the plant over time.
Q: Is it safe to use chemical controls on roses if I want to cut them for bouquets?
A: If you plan to use roses in arrangements or for any purpose where humans will have close contact with them, it’s best to avoid chemical pesticides or carefully follow waiting periods specified on product labels. Consider using organic or mechanical controls instead. If you do use chemicals, wait at least the recommended time (usually 1-2 weeks) before harvesting flowers for indoor use.
Q: Do some rose varieties resist pest damage better than others?
A: Yes, certain rose varieties have been bred for improved disease and pest resistance. Generally, species roses and many shrub roses (like Knock Out® roses) tend to be more resilient than hybrid teas and floribundas. When selecting roses, look specifically for varieties noted for pest resistance, which can significantly reduce maintenance needs and damage from common leaf-eating pests.
Q: Can companion planting help protect roses from pests?
A: Companion planting can be an effective strategy for naturally deterring rose pests. Plants like garlic, chives, and marigolds can repel certain insects, while herbs such as thyme, mint, and lavender may mask the scent of roses that attracts some pests. Additionally, plants that attract beneficial insects, such as dill, fennel, and yarrow, can help establish a natural balance of predators in your garden.
Q: How often should I treat my roses for pests preventatively?
A: Rather than adhering to a rigid preventative treatment schedule, practice integrated pest management by regularly monitoring your roses for signs of pests and treating only when necessary. Preventative measures like maintaining plant health through proper watering, fertilizing, and pruning are more sustainable approaches. If you live in an area where certain pests are inevitable, consider applying organic preventatives like neem oil every 7-14 days during peak pest seasons.
References
Read full bio of Shinta