Gardening 101: Quaking Grass—Planting, Care, and Design

Trembling seed heads bring graceful movement and interest to borders and bouquets.

By Medha deb

Created on Sep 11, 2025

Trembling seed heads bring graceful movement and interest to borders and bouquets.

Gardening 101: Quaking Grass

Quaking grass (Briza media, sometimes Briza maxima or rattlesnake grass) is a captivating ornamental grass beloved for its gently nodding, heart-shaped seed heads that tremble in the slightest breeze. This perennial from the family Poaceae is cherished both for its subtle beauty in the garden and its versatility in floral arrangements, offering year-round structure, movement, and sound.

Overview: What is Quaking Grass?
Why Grow Quaking Grass?
Planting Quaking Grass
Caring for Quaking Grass
Creative Uses & Garden Design
Common Issues and Solutions
Frequently Asked Questions

Overview: What is Quaking Grass?

Quaking grass describes several species in the Briza genus, most notably Briza media (perennial) and Briza maxima (annual). These grasses are native to meadows and open woodlands across Europe, prized for their slender, upright stems and distinctive, flat-lantern seed headsâoften compared to little hearts or coins. As the wind moves through, the seed heads tremble or “quake,” giving the grass its common name.

Feature	Description
Common Names	Quaking grass, rattlesnake grass, trembling grass, shivery grass
Botanical Name	Briza media (perennial), Briza maxima (annual)
Plant Family	Poaceae
Height	12â24 inches (30â60 cm)
Seed Head Shape	Ovate, heart-shaped or rounded panicles
Hardiness	USDA Zones 4â9 (B. media)

Why Grow Quaking Grass?

Visual Appeal: Moves elegantly in breeze, adding motion and texture to garden compositions.
Cut and Dried Arrangements: Seed heads are ideal for both fresh and dried flower arrangements, lasting many months.
Wildlife and Deer Resistance: Invites pollinators but is rarely touched by deer or afflicted by major pests.
Drought-Tolerant: Once established, requires very little supplemental watering .
Low-Maintenance: Minimal needs for fertilizer or pruning, suits both busy gardeners and naturalistic schemes .

Planting Quaking Grass

Timing

Sow seeds directly outdoors in late summer or spring after all danger of frost has passed .
For earlier blooms, start indoors in peat pots 6â8 weeks before last frost, then transplant after danger of frost .
Perennial clumps can be divided every 2â3 years in spring for propagation and rejuvenation .

Location & Soil

Full sun provides the best flowering and overall vigor. In especially hot climates, provide part shade during the hottest part of the day .
Tolerates a wide range of soilsâsandy, loamy, or clayâbut well-draining soil is best. Heavy, waterlogged soils should be amended or avoided .
Soil fertility should be moderate to low; too much fertility encourages floppy, weak growth .
Soil pH can be neutral, acid, or alkaline, making quaking grass highly adaptable .

Planting Steps

Scatter seeds onto the soil surfaceâdo not cover deeply, but gently press to ensure contact .
Space plants at least 12â20 inches (30â50 cm) apart to accommodate mature clump size .
If soils are heavy or poor-draining, incorporate 2â4 inches (5â10 cm) of organic mulch or compost before sowing .
Keep soil lightly moist until seeds germinate (typically 10â21 days) .

Caring for Quaking Grass

Water

First Year: Water weekly and more often in extreme heat, allowing the top 1â2 inches (2.5â5 cm) of soil to dry between watering .
Established Plants: Drought-tolerant; water primarily during prolonged droughts or in containers .
Container-grown plants may need watering every 4â5 days during peak growth .

Fertilization

Quaking grass generally does not require fertilizer if planted in fresh potting soil .
Too much fertilizer results in floppy, weak stems .
If needed, apply a balanced, slow-release fertilizer in spring, using no more than 1/4 to 1/2 cup (60â120 ml) per plant at planting or at the start of growth .

Sunlight

Prefers full sunlight (at least 6 hours of direct sun per day).
Can tolerate light shade, but fewer blooms will be produced and growth may be less robust .

Soil & Drainage

Well-drained soil is essential for health, especially in areas receiving regular rainfall .
Clay, sandy, or loamy soils are suitable, provided drainage is sufficient.
For containers, use a gritty or sandy, low-nutrient potting mix.

Pruning and Maintenance

After seed heads fade, cut back old stalks to promote tidy appearance and encourage new growth .
Spring: Cut grass back to 3â4 inches (8â10 cm) before new growth emerges .
Autumn: Avoid cutting to the ground for winter interest and root protection .
Every 2â3 years, divide mature clumps in early spring to rejuvenate and propagate .

Additional Tips

Remove spent flower stems for fresh arrangements or allow them to mature for dried bouquets.
Avoid excessive watering once established to minimize risk of root rot.
Refresh potting soil annually in containers for healthiest growth.

Creative Uses & Garden Design

Cheat Sheet for Gardeners

Ideal for cutting gardens, meadows, naturalized plantings, or informal cottage borders .
Plant in small groups or massed drifts for the most dramatic and visible effect .
Beautiful alongside airy perennials like coreopsis, cosmos, salvia, and wildflowers .
Use seed heads for fresh or dried floral work, including wreaths and bouquets .

Design Ideas

Wildflower Meadows: Integrate quaking grass for movement and gentle sound among pollinator-friendly blooms.
Cottage Gardens: Plant in clusters at mid-border, allowing seed heads to catch sunlight and sway amongst classic perennials.
Woodland Edges: Blend with ferns and shade-tolerant perennials for a naturalistic effect.
Xeriscaping: Use in low-water, drought-resistant plantings with succulents and other native grasses .
Container Gardens: Grow in shallow bowls or pots for patios, balconies, or accent plantings.
Winter Interest: Leave seed heads standing through winter for architectural structure and to shelter overwintering insects .

Common Issues and Solutions

Disease and Pests: Quaking grass is notably free of serious insect or disease problems; deer and rabbits typically ignore it .
Lodging (Flopping): Caused by too-fertile soil, excessive moisture, or overcrowding. Remedy by planting in lean soil, ensuring good air circulation, and dividing dense clumps .
Poor Flowering: Often due to too much shade or over-fertilization. Move to a sunnier spot or reduce feedings .
Root Rot: From waterlogged soils; always check that planting site drains well, especially in containers.
Center Dieback: The middle of old clumps may die back after several years; divide and replant vigorous outer sections .

Frequently Asked Questions (FAQs)

Q: Is quaking grass invasive?

A: Quaking grass is not typically invasive. Although it self-seeds moderately, it is easy to control by deadheading spent seed heads or removing unwanted seedlings.

Q: Can quaking grass grow in containers?

A: Yes, quaking grass adapts well to containers when given a low-nutrient, well-draining potting mix and full sun. Regular division keeps potted grasses vigorous.

Q: What companions look best with quaking grass?

A: Airy perennials such as cosmos, coreopsis, salvia, echinacea, or ornamental alliums make excellent companions, providing complementary textures and colors.

Q: Does it require winter protection?

A: Perennial quaking grass is hardy to USDA Zone 4 and generally does not require protection; leaving dry stalks over winter insulates the roots and adds garden interest.

Q: Can I use the seed heads in crafts?

A: Absolutely. The distinctive seed heads are popular for dried arrangements, wreaths, and floral crafts, holding their shape and color for months.

Key Takeaways

Quaking grass is a versatile, low-maintenance ornamental valued for its kinetic seed heads, adaptability, and resilience.
Succeeds in a variety of soils and garden settings, with minimal care required once established.
Provides year-round visual and textural interest, and is a favorite in both fresh and dried floral design.

References

Author

medha deb

Medha Deb is an editor with a master's degree in Applied Linguistics from the University of Hyderabad. She believes that her qualification has helped her develop a deep understanding of language and its application in various contexts.

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