Bare Root Strawberries: Expert Guide To Planting And Harvesting

Dormant crowns awaken rapidly to deliver flavorful berries with minimal effort.

By Anjali Sayee
Created on

Bare Root Strawberries: How and When to Plant for the Best Harvest

Enjoy the unparalleled sweetness of picking ripe strawberries from your own garden. Planting bare root strawberry crowns is a beginner-friendly, cost-effective method to establish abundant strawberry beds, whether in containers, raised beds, or as edible groundcover. This in-depth guide covers all you need to know: from understanding bare root crowns and selecting planting sites, to step-by-step planting, ongoing care, common issues, and harvesting tips.

Why Grow Strawberries from Bare Root Crowns?

There are many reasons to choose bare root strawberry crowns as your planting material:

  • Reliable and affordable propagation
  • Wider selection of varieties vs. potted starts
  • Vigor and longevity—plants adapt rapidly to your soil
  • Easy to ship, store, and handle when dormant
  • No soil attached, reducing the risk of transmitting soil-borne diseases
  • Better value for large plantings

Once established, bare root strawberries yield season after season with minimal fuss, helping you avoid potential pesticide contamination of store-bought berries and saving on high grocery prices.

What Are Bare Root Strawberries?

Bare root strawberry crowns consist of dormant roots and a short stem (the crown), usually shipped without any soil. They can look like dried “alien” roots, but these crowns are alive and ready to grow. When hydrated and planted correctly, they spring into action, sending up leaves and roots with vigor.

You’ll also find strawberries sold as “plugs”—young plants grown in small soil plugs—but bare root crowns are more economical and resilient for most home and market gardens.

Bare Root vs. Strawberry Plugs: Key Differences

FeatureBare Root CrownsPlugs
FormDormant roots & crown, no soilRooted young plants in a growing medium
Planting CostLower per plant, ideal for volumeHigher per plant
AdaptationQuickly acclimates to local soilAlready somewhat established, less shock
AvailabilityWider variety selectionLimited to what nurseries offer
HandlingRequires soaking and careful plantingPlant as you would a seedling

When to Plant Bare Root Strawberries

The best time to plant bare root strawberries depends on your climate:

  • Early spring: As soon as soil is workable and daytime temps are reliably above freezing (commonly 6-8 weeks before average last frost). This gives roots a head start.
  • Fall (warm climates): In zones where the ground doesn’t freeze, plant in late autumn for an earlier crop next summer.

If your crowns arrive before planting time, they can be stored refrigerated (more details below).

How to Store Bare Root Strawberry Crowns Before Planting

Bare root crowns should be planted as soon as possible. However, here’s how to keep them healthy if you can’t plant right away:

  • Remove all rubber bands, twist ties, and packaging.
  • Separate crowns and check for mold or rot.
  • Wrap in damp paper towels (not soggy), place inside an open plastic bag.
  • Refrigerate at 32-40°F (0-4°C). Do not freeze.
  • Plant within 1-2 weeks for best results.

Preparing Bare Root Crowns for Planting

Proper preparation is crucial for strong root establishment:

  1. Unbundle crowns and gently untangle roots.
  2. Soak the roots in clean water for 1 to 12 hours before planting. Only the roots should be submerged—keep the crown dry. This rehydrates dormant roots and jumpstarts growth.
  3. Trim away any blackened, mushy, moldy, or damaged roots with sanitized scissors.

Where to Plant Strawberries: Site Selection

Strawberries thrive in:

  • Full sun (at least 6-8 hours direct sunlight daily)
  • Well-draining, loose soil—avoid areas that puddle or retain water
  • Raised beds, mounds, containers, or ground-level garden plots
  • Locations with good air circulation to reduce fungal problems

Strawberries grow well alongside compatible crops like lettuce and spinach but should not follow previous strawberry or nightshade crops, which may harbor soil-borne diseases.

Best Soil for Strawberries

  • Loamy or sandy soil with pH between 5.5 and 6.5
  • Enriched with compost or well-rotted manure
  • Good drainage is crucial
  • Avoid recently manured beds to prevent disease risk

Step-by-Step: How to Plant Bare Root Strawberry Crowns

  1. Prepare the soil: Loosen to at least 8-10 inches deep, remove weeds, and rake smooth.
  2. Lay out your spacing: For most varieties, space crowns 12-18 inches apart in rows 2-3 feet apart.
  3. Dig planting holes: Holes should be large enough for roots to spread out fully in all directions.
  4. Position the crown: Set so the roots are fully covered but the crown is exactly at soil level.
    Avoid burying the crown, which leads to rot; do not expose too much of the crown, which may dry out.
  5. Gently backfill with soil, pressing lightly to remove air pockets.
  6. Water thoroughly after planting.

Planting Tip

Visualize the “crown” as the point where roots meet the stems/leaves. Only the roots go below the soil surface, not the stem or leaves. If the crown is buried, the plant may rot. If it’s exposed, the roots may dry out or fail to anchor the plant. Getting this step right is the #1 key to successful establishment.

Ideal Strawberry Varieties to Grow from Bare Root Crowns

Strawberries come in three main types. Select varieties based on your climate and harvest goals:

  • June-Bearing: Produce a single large crop in late spring/early summer. Best for big harvests and preserves.
  • Everbearing: Two main harvest flushes—late spring/early summer and again in late summer/early fall.
  • Day-Neutral: Flower and fruit all season long as long as temperatures stay moderate.

Popular bare root varieties: ‘Albion’, ‘Seascape’, ‘Chandler’, ‘Earliglow’ among many others. Choose disease-resistant cultivars when possible.

Ongoing Strawberry Care: After Planting

  • Watering: Keep soil consistently moist but never soggy—about 1 inch/week is optimal, more during flowering/fruiting.
  • Mulch: Apply straw, pine needles, or composted mulch to retain moisture, suppress weeds, and keep ripening berries off the soil.
  • Fertilizing: Once new growth appears, fertilize with a balanced, low-nitrogen organic fertilizer. Avoid heavy feeding at planting, as excessive nitrogen may lead to leafy growth at the expense of fruit.
  • Remove flowers: For first-year plants, pinch off all flowers for the first 4-6 weeks to encourage strong root and runner establishment.

Training and Pruning Strawberry Plants

Strawberries produce runners (above-ground stems that root and form new plants). Pruning is key to managing growth and maximizing fruit:

  • First year: Remove most runners to focus energy on root and crown development.
  • After establishment: Allow 1-2 runners per plant if you want to expand your strawberry patch.
  • Clip unwanted runners at the base using clean, sharp scissors.
  • Remove dead or diseased leaves promptly to reduce disease pressure.

Common Problems and Troubleshooting

Poor Growth or Establishment

  • Check for planting too deep (crown buried) or too shallow (roots exposed).
  • Under- or over-watering. Keep soil moist but not flooded.
  • Frost damage: Early plantings may need row cover protection in cold snaps.

Pests and Diseases

  • Slugs and snails: Attracted to mulch and ripe berries. Use barriers or traps.
  • Gray mold (Botrytis): Remove infected fruit and ensure good airflow.
  • Aphids, spider mites: Spray with a strong water jet or apply insecticidal soap if needed.

Rotate beds every 3 years, practice good sanitation, and avoid planting after other berries or nightshades to reduce disease risk.

When and How to Harvest Strawberries

  • Harvest when berries are full-color, glossy, and just slightly soft when gently squeezed.
  • Pick in the morning for peak flavor.
  • Snip at the stem rather than pulling fruit to avoid damaging plants.
  • Harvest often to encourage new fruits to ripen.

FAQs About Bare Root Strawberries

Q: Can bare root strawberries be planted in containers?

A: Yes, they do exceptionally well in pots, planters, grow bags, and other containers. Ensure the container has good drainage and ample room for root development.

Q: How long before bare root strawberries produce fruit?

A: With proper planting, most will flower and set berries the same season, especially everbearing or day-neutral types. For the largest crop and healthiest plants, pinch off the first flush of flowers to encourage strong establishment, then let plants fruit afterward.

Q: Why do my crowns look dead or dried out when they arrive?

A: Dormant crowns may appear lifeless, but soaking in water before planting usually restores vigor. Avoid any mushy, moldy, or blackened crowns.

Q: Can I start bare root strawberries indoors?

A: While possible, it’s best to plant directly into prepared garden beds or containers. If you must start indoors (due to late frost), use trays of potting mix under grow lights and transplant as soon as weather allows.

Q: Should strawberries be rotated each year?

A: Yes, rotate beds every 3-4 years to maintain vigor and prevent soil-borne disease buildup.

Conclusion: The Joy of Homegrown Strawberries

Planting and caring for bare root strawberries is straightforward, satisfying, and rewarding. With the right technique and timely care, you can grow healthy, productive plants that yield delicious fresh fruit for years to come. Whether you’re tending a small urban container garden or starting a market patch, the steps above will guide you through success from dormant crowns to juicy harvests.

Anjali is an Associate Editor at StyleCraze with 7 years of experience specializing in hairstyles, hair care, and skin care. She has authored over 300 articles and offers expert advice on hair styling techniques, effective skin care routines, and tips for maintaining healthy hair and skin.

Read full bio of Anjali Sayee