How to Make Authentic Paris-Style Bagels at Home: Jo Goldenberg’s Method
Bring legendary crust and chew to your kitchen with bakery-inspired methods.
How to Make Authentic Paris-Style Bagels at Home à la Jo Goldenberg
Bagels boast a legendary status in both New York and Paris, but the distinct charm of the Parisian style—a chewy, glossy crust and rich, nuanced flavor—has captivated bread lovers for generations. The iconic Jo Goldenberg bakery in Paris was famed for producing what many regarded as the quintessential bagel. Inspired by this original, this comprehensive guide demystifies the process, empowering you to craft utterly authentic bagels in your own kitchen. From the unique dough method and precise shaping to time-tested boiling and baking techniques, every step is designed to yield perfect results reminiscent of the bakeries of Rue des Rosiers.
Table of Contents
- Introduction: What Makes a Paris-Style Bagel Special?
- Ingredients & Equipment for Authenticity
- Step 1: Making and Proofing the Dough
- Step 2: Shaping Bagels Like a Pro
- Step 3: Boiling for Chew and Shine
- Step 4: Baking to Golden Perfection
- Classic and Creative Toppings
- Expert Tips & Troubleshooting
- Frequently Asked Questions
Introduction: What Makes a Paris-Style Bagel Special?
While New York and Montreal each lay claim to the “true” bagel, Paris brings its own je ne sais quoi to the tradition. Jo Goldenberg’s bagels were celebrated for their pronounced chew, deep flavor, and a signature burnished crust that can only be achieved through meticulous boiling and the right touch of malt syrup. This approach—revered by food writers and home bakers alike—emphasizes texture and taste over maximal fluffiness, resulting in a bagel that balances heartiness with delicacy. Goldenberg’s method, adaptable to home ovens, distills this Parisian magic into something you can bake anywhere.
Ingredients & Equipment for Authenticity
Success in bagel baking starts with ingredient precision and the right equipment. Here’s what you need for a classic Paris-style result:
- Bread Flour (unbleached, at least 12% protein): The high protein ensures structure and chewiness.
- Instant Dry Yeast: Essential for reliable, quick fermentation.
- Sugar: Adds mild sweetness and helps browning.
- Salt: Deepens flavor and tempers fermentation.
- Hot Water (120–130°F/49–54°C): Helps dissolve ingredients and promotes gluten development.
- Malt Syrup or Demerara Syrup: Key for that traditional bagel flavor and shiny crust.
- Optional Egg Wash: Adds extra shine and helps toppings adhere.
- Toppings: Sesame seeds, poppy seeds, shallots, garlic, or a homemade “Everything” blend.
- Large Pot: For boiling bagels.
- Food Processor or Stand Mixer: For kneading and mixing the dough.
- Baking Sheet and Wire Rack: For even baking and cooling.
| Ingredient | Amount | Purpose |
|---|---|---|
| Bread flour | 530g (3 1/2 cups) | Provides structure/chew |
| Instant dry yeast | 2.5 tsp | Leavening |
| Sugar | 2 tbsp | Mild sweetness, browning |
| Salt | 1 tbsp | Flavor, gluten control |
| Hot water (120°F–130°F) | 340g (1 1/2 cups) | Hydration, gluten dev. |
| Demerara/malt syrup | 2 tbsp for boil | Flavor, crust color |
Step 1: Making and Proofing the Dough
The dough is where bagel distinctiveness begins. The golden rule is to keep it stiff for chew, but smooth enough for a cohesive crumb.
Mixing the Dough
- Combine bread flour, yeast, sugar, and salt in the bowl of a food processor or stand mixer.
- Pulse for about 5 seconds to fully integrate the dry ingredients.
- With the machine running, slowly pour in the hot water. Continue processing until the dough forms a single mass, becoming shiny and elastic (about 30–90 seconds depending on your machine).
- The finished dough should pull away from the sides, bouncing back slightly when pressed.
First Rise (Bulk Fermentation)
- Lightly oil a large bowl. Shape the dough into a smooth ball, pinching the seam closed underneath.
- Place the dough ball in the bowl, turning to coat all sides lightly with oil.
- Cover with plastic wrap and let it rise for at least 1 hour, or until doubled in size. Warmer kitchens may speed up this process.
Step 2: Shaping Bagels Like a Pro
Authentic bagels need careful shaping to create a dense, chewy texture and a beautiful hole structure. There are two reliable shaping methods:
Dividing the Dough
- Turn the proofed dough onto a lightly floured surface and gently press to de-gas. Divide into 10 equal pieces (about 89–90g each for uniform bagels).
- Shape each piece into a ball, pinching the seam closed at the bottom.
- Place dough balls on a baking sheet lined with parchment paper. Cover with a towel to prevent drying.
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Two Shaping Methods
- Rope-and-Loop Method: Roll a dough ball into a 7-inch rope, then bring the ends together and pinch firmly to seal, forming a ring. Insert 3–4 fingers into the hole and roll the seam gently against the work surface to fuse it.
- Poke-and-Stretch Method: Punch a hole through the center of each round ball, then stretch and twirl to widen the ring to about 2.5 inches across. This rustic method is traditional and effective.
Step 3: Boiling for Chew and Shine
Boiling bagels is not optional—it’s the key to achieving the classic chewy crust and gloss that define this style. Here’s how to do it right:
- Bring 4 quarts of water to a rapid boil in a wide, heavy-based pot.
- Add 2 tablespoons of demerara or malt syrup (or, if unavailable, substitute with molasses or a touch of sugar). This enriches flavor and ensures a deep golden-brown exterior.
- Lower 3 bagels into the boiling water at a time to avoid crowding. Boil for 1 minute, flipping halfway (“30 seconds per side”). Bagels will float, forming their skin and setting the crumb.
- Remove carefully with a slotted spoon or spider, allowing excess water to drain off onto a clean towel.
Step 4: Baking to Golden Perfection
Now for the transformation from boiled dough ring to irresistible bagel. This final step builds crustiness and rich color.
- Preheat your oven to 400°F (200°C) while boiling the bagels.
- If using toppings, brush the tops of each boiled bagel with beaten egg (1 egg mixed with 1 tsp water) for extra gloss.
- Dip the bagel tops into desired toppings, then place them topping-side up on a parchment-lined baking tray.
- Bake for 15–20 minutes until bagels are deeply golden and sound hollow when tapped. A wire rack set inside the tray helps with air circulation and even color.
- Allow bagels to cool slightly before slicing and serving. The exterior will develop a crisp-thin shell, while the interior remains tender with signature chew.
Classic and Creative Toppings
Great bagels can be topped with nearly anything, but certain flavors are classic. Here are popular options you can try:
- Sesame Seeds: White or black, for a nutty flavor.
- Poppy Seeds: A timeless, faintly earthy crunch.
- Fried Shallots or Garlic: Adds a punchy, savory note.
- Everything Blend: Make your own by combining chia seeds, white and black sesame, dried minced shallot, dried minced garlic, and sea salt flakes.
- Sea Salt Flakes: Elevates flavor; sprinkle lightly before baking.
To create a memorable ‘Everything’ bagel, here’s a simple DIY blend:
- 2 tbsp chia seeds
- 1 tbsp white sesame seeds
- 1 tbsp black sesame seeds
- 1 tbsp dried minced shallot
- 1 tbsp dried minced garlic
- 2 tsp sea salt flakes
Expert Tips & Troubleshooting
Getting that authentic result can take a little practice. Here are tips drawn from the tradition:
- Weighing Ingredients: For consistency, always use a scale especially for flour and water.
- Water Temperature: Hot, but not boiling! This activates yeast and aids dough elasticity.
- Starter Substitutes: While a pre-ferment adds flavor, this direct-rise approach—with slow proof—yields surprisingly deep notes.
- Do Not Over-Boil: Too long in the bath leads to tough bagels; 1 minute total is ideal.
- Monitor Oven Color: Rotate trays halfway if your oven bakes unevenly.
- Storage: Fresh bagels are best day-of, but freeze like a dream. Slice before freezing for easy toasting later.
- Make Ahead: You can shape and refrigerate bagels overnight. Bring to room temperature as oven preheats to bake fresh in the morning.
Frequently Asked Questions
Q: Can I use all-purpose flour instead of bread flour?
A: Bread flour is essential for proper chewiness. All-purpose flour makes a softer, fluffier interior; substitute only if necessary.
Q: Why is boiling the bagels important?
A: Boiling sets the crust, creates chew, and helps toppings adhere. It also locks in the iconic bagel flavor and shine.
Q: Can I make bagels without a stand mixer or food processor?
A: Yes, but prepare for a workout! Mix the dough by hand until smooth and elastic, kneading for 10–15 minutes.
Q: How do I get my bagels extra glossy?
A: A combination of malt syrup in the boiling water and an optional egg wash before baking ensures maximum shine.
Q: My bagels came out flat. What went wrong?
A: Over-proofing, too much water, or under-kneading can all reduce oven spring. Keep dough stiffer, and check yeast freshness.
Q: Can I freeze bagels?
A: Absolutely. Cool them fully, slice if desired, and store in zip-top bags in the freezer. Toast straight from frozen for best results.
Conclusion: Bringing Paris Home
Authentic bagels à la Jo Goldenberg are more than just bread—they’re a bit of living history. With the right attention to detail and the steps above, any home baker can achieve a crusty, chewy, flavor-packed bagel that channels the heart of Paris’s beloved Jewish quarter. Make them for breakfast, brunch, or just because: you’re a bite away from Paris itself.
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