Tongass National Forest: The Crown Jewel of America’s Wilderness
Explore the breathtaking beauty and ecological importance of Tongass, America's largest national forest and the heart of the temperate rainforest.
Tongass National Forest: America’s Natural Crown Jewel
The Tongass National Forest, spanning almost 17 million acres across Southeast Alaska, stands as the largest national forest in the United States and the heart of the world’s largest intact temperate rainforest. Revered as the nation’s ecological and cultural treasure, the Tongass is recognized for its breathtaking landscapes, extraordinary biodiversity, and the intricate relationship between environment, Indigenous heritage, and conservation efforts.
Location, Scale, and Global Significance
Nestled in the southeastern panhandle of Alaska, the Tongass covers a sprawling archipelago, rugged mainland, and glacial valleys, stretching more than 500 miles from north to south. Its immense scale makes it larger than 10 U.S. states combined and covers nearly the entire southeastern corner of Alaska.
- Area: Nearly 17 million acres, with about one-third designated as wilderness areas.
- Geography: A region of deep fjords, glaciated peaks, old-growth forests, and over 1,000 islands.
Alongside Canada’s contiguous Great Bear Rainforest, the Tongass forms the largest swath of intact temperate rainforest on Earth, making it globally important for biodiversity, climate regulation, and as a living natural archive.
Map: Tongass National Forest and Southeast Alaska
[Insert illustrative map highlighting the boundaries of Tongass, main islands, and adjacent lands to help visualize its vastness.]
Indigenous Peoples and Human Communities
The forest is the ancestral home of three Alaska Native nations:
- Tlingit
- Haida
- Tsimshian
For thousands of years, these peoples have forged a deep and enduring relationship with the land, rivers, and coastal waters. The Tongass’ name itself comes from the Tongass group of the Tlingit people. Today, about 70,000 people live in and around the forest, with Juneau—the Alaskan capital—being its largest community. Altogether, 31 towns and communities are scattered throughout Tongass, many continuing traditional subsistence practices, fishing, and stewardship.
What Makes the Tongass Unique?
The Tongass is among the last remaining, intact temperate rainforests in the world. Its ancient stands of cedar, spruce, and hemlock—some trees exceeding 800 years in age—anchor a web of ecological interdependence, creating habitats that are as lush as they are vital for the stability of wildlife populations and climate systems. Tongass’ geography features:
- Dense, moss-draped forests
- Expansive peatlands and muskegs
- Cascading rivers and thousands of salmon-spawning streams
- More than 100,000 glaciers and substantial icefields
Climate and Rainfall
The forest receives between 60 and 200 inches of precipitation annually, supporting verdant vegetation year-round. The convergence of maritime climate, ancient soil, and glacial heritage fosters unparalleled fertility and resilience.
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Ecological Richness and Biodiversity
The Tongass is unparalleled in its diversity and abundance of life:
- Trees: Western hemlock (70%), Sitka spruce (20%), with significant western red cedar and Alaskan yellow-cedar.
- Wildlife: The region is a sanctuary for black and brown (grizzly) bears, Sitka black-tailed deer, wolves, mountain goats, otters, beavers, and Steller sea lions.
- Birds: Bald eagles (with some of the world’s densest populations), Northern goshawks, and marbled murrelets thrive here.
- Fish: All five species of Pacific salmon—including king, red, silver, chum, and pink—spawn in its streams, sustaining both wildlife and communities.
| Species | Notable Fact |
|---|---|
| Brown Bears | Largest densest populations in North America |
| Bald Eagles | Nearly 25% of Alaska’s population nests here |
| Pacific Salmon | Five species, critical for forest and human food webs |
| Sitka Black-tailed Deer | Key prey for wolves and local hunting |
The dynamic cycle connecting old-growth trees, salmon spawning, carnivores, scavengers, and the nutrient-rich soil is intrinsic to the Tongass’ lasting vitality.
Importance for Carbon and Climate
As America’s largest contiguous carbon sink, the Tongass stores approximately 1.5 billion metric tons of CO2 equivalent and sequesters an additional 10 million metric tons annually. This accounts for about 8% of the carbon stock in all U.S. forests. Its mature forests and undisturbed soils make it vital for mitigating climate change, regulating hydrology, and sustaining the resilience of thousands of species.
Economic and Cultural Value
- Subsistence: Indigenous and local residents depend on fish, wildlife, and natural resources for food, livelihood, and cultural practices.
- Tourism and Recreation: Eco-tourism, wildlife viewing, hiking, kayaking, and sportfishing have become pillars of the regional economy, supporting over 10,000 jobs. Campgrounds and more than 150 rustic cabins offer unique ways to experience the wild.
- Commercial Fishing: Salmon and seafood from the Tongass support both local sustenance and the broader Alaskan economy.
- Scientific Inquiry: Researchers study forest dynamics, climate impacts, glaciology, and wildlife behavior, furthering global understanding of temperate rainforests.
Today, the economy is evolving from dependence on timber harvesting to a sustainable blend of ecotourism, subsistence practices, scientific research, and resource stewardship.
Logging, Old-Growth Forests, and Environmental Threats
Historically, the Tongass was logged intensively throughout the 20th century. While logging provided jobs and development, it disproportionately targeted the rarest, most productive old-growth stands. As a result:
- Over half of the large-tree forests have been logged, especially in the southern islands where some tracts have no old-growth forest remaining.
- The southern Tongass lost more than two-thirds of its original old-growth forests.
Impacts from past industrial-scale clearcutting altered fish habitat, fragmented wildlife corridors, and reduced ecosystem integrity.
Conservation & Restoration Efforts
- Almost 5.7 million acres (about one-third) of the forest are protected as federally designated wilderness, securing these lands for wildlife and future generations.
- Multiple organizations, including Indigenous-led groups, the U.S. Forest Service, and environmental NGOs, work to restore degraded watersheds and to re-wild secondary forests.
- Policies like the Roadless Rule seek to prevent new road construction in undeveloped areas, thereby further safeguarding old-growth habitats.
Recreation in the Tongass
The forest’s natural wonders welcome visitors seeking adventure and solitude:
- Boating along the Inside Passage and among glaciers
- Hiking rainforests, alpine meadows, and rugged mountain trails
- Fishing in salmon-rich rivers and pristine lakes
- Wildlife viewing—watching bears at Fish Creek or Pack Creek, eagles along the rivers, and whales offshore
- Camping in secluded cabins or designated backcountry sites
Major visitor centers—Mendenhall Glacier (Juneau), Petersburg, and Southeast Alaska Discovery Center (Ketchikan)—provide information, panoramic views, and interpretive programs to enrich the forest experience.
Why the Tongass Matters for the Future
The Tongass National Forest is a living library of ecological knowledge, cultural heritage, and natural splendor. Its continued protection is essential for:
- Maintaining global biodiversity in an era of extinction
- Upholding climate stability via vast carbon stores
- Sustaining the traditions, economies, and well-being of Alaskan communities
- Ensuring future generations can experience wild Alaska in its near-pristine state
Frequently Asked Questions (FAQs)
Q: Where exactly is the Tongass National Forest located?
A: The Tongass spans Southeast Alaska’s archipelago, from near Ketchikan in the south to Yakutat in the north, bordering British Columbia and the Pacific Ocean.
Q: What is unique about the Tongass compared to other forests?
A: The Tongass is the world’s largest intact temperate rainforest, with ancient trees, abundant glaciers, and unmatched wildlife, making it critical globally for biodiversity and climate.
Q: Are there places to visit and stay within the forest?
A: Yes. The Tongass hosts over 150 rustic cabins, scenic campgrounds, and visitor centers in Juneau, Ketchikan, and Petersburg, among others, enabling immersive recreational experiences.
Q: What types of wildlife could visitors expect to see?
A: Visitors may encounter brown and black bears, Sitka deer, bald eagles, salmon, whales, wolves, sea lions, and a rich array of birds and marine creatures.
Q: What are current threats and conservation challenges?
A: The main challenges are past and potential future logging, development pressure, impacts of climate change on glaciers and species, and ongoing debates over land management policies.
Connecting with the Tongass
The story of the Tongass National Forest is a testament to nature’s resiliency, Indigenous wisdom, and the ongoing efforts to balance conservation and human livelihoods. As Americans and global citizens, protecting the Tongass is both a privilege and a responsibility for all who cherish wild places and the life they sustain.
References
- https://www.nationalforests.org/our-forests/find-a-forest/tongass-national-forest
- https://ak.audubon.org/conservation/tongass-national-forest
- https://alaskawild.org/tongass-national-forest/
- https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tongass_National_Forest
- https://rainforests.fsnaturelive.org/americas_rainforests/tongass.php
- https://www.travelalaska.com/destinations/parks-public-lands/tongass-national-forest
- https://www.nationalforests.org/blog/six-ways-to-experience-the-tongass-national-forest
- http://www.fs.usda.gov/r10
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