Why Women’s Clothing Sizes Make No Sense: The Evolution and Chaos of Sizing
Explore the baffling history, psychology, and reality of why women’s clothing sizes are so inconsistent and what it means for today’s shoppers.
Walk into any clothing store and you might find yourself puzzled by the numbers on women’s clothing labels. A size 12 in one store fits like an 8 somewhere else. Ever bought something labeled as ‘plus-size’ and wondered whom it’s designed to fit? The truth is: labeling, sizing, and the entire process behind women’s clothing sizes is anything but straightforward. The confusion—and frustration—is deeply rooted in decades of shifting standards, questionable industry practices, and persistent cultural pressures.
The Birth of Clothing Sizes
In 1958, the National Bureau of Standards (NBS), working with the American Society for Testing and Materials, attempted to bring order to ready-to-wear fashion by creating a standardized clothing chart based on “average” women. This seemed like a solution for manufacturers, who needed a consistent way to grade patterns and produce clothes en masse. But even the original studies were flawed:
- They mostly measured white women, discarding data from women of color.
- Volunteers for the study were paid a stipend, resulting in disproportionate representation of poorer, potentially malnourished women.
- Later adjustments included the measurements of women who served in the military—among the fittest women of the time.
As a result, the ‘average’ woman back then didn’t represent the broader American female population, skewing initial sizing standards from the start. Slate reports these factors still ripple through the industry today.
How Sizing Drifted Over the Decades
Back in 1958, a size 12 dress meant:
- Bust: 34 inches
- Waist: 25 inches
But today, that same bust and waist measurement would barely qualify as a size 6 or 4 in many major US brands. Modern size 12s accommodate much larger measurements:
- Bust: 39 inches
- Waist: 32 inches
| Year | Bust (inches) | Waist (inches) | Label Size |
|---|---|---|---|
| 1958 | 34 | 25 | 12 |
| 2023 | 39 | 32 | 12 |
This shifting scale is partially due to changes in the population’s average size, but it’s also a result of the industry’s willingness to twist numbers for marketing advantage.
Vanity Sizing: The Rise of Feel-Good Labels
The term ‘vanity sizing’ refers to the practice of labeling clothing as smaller than actual physical dimensions require, so that shoppers fit a smaller number and, subsequently, feel better about themselves. Brands quickly realized that the illusion of a lower size boosts confidence, and research shows that people are more likely to buy when they feel good about their size label.
- Shoppers often report wearing a size 6 at one retailer, but need a 10 or 12 at another.
- Vanity sizing is especially prevalent in American brands, which base their systems on outdated standards—originally intended for the slim, hourglass-shaped, white women targeted by 1950s fashion.
- High street brands in other countries, like Zara in Spain, may use systems that reflect their native body averages, sometimes running much smaller.
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The Paradox of Humility Sizing
Psychologists point out that confusing sizing isn’t just a marketing flaw; sometimes it’s a deliberate tactic known as ‘humility sizing’. While vanity sizing makes you feel good for fitting into a smaller label, humility sizing (making sizes run small) encourages “compensatory spending.” When shoppers are forced to size up, it can trigger insecurity—leading them to buy more items in a single trip to offset that discomfort.
A Journal of Consumer Psychology study found that these fluctuating tactics—both inflating and deflating shoppers’ self-esteem—ultimately maximize sales.
Fast Fashion and the Problem of Consistency
The uncontrollable spread of fast fashion is a major source of today’s size confusion. Sustainably-minded stylists and industry analysts agree:
- There is no overarching regulatory body setting size standards, so each brand interprets numbers differently.
- Many fast fashion brands source products from dozens of factories and design teams, leading to wild inconsistency in how sizes fit.
- Size charts may be developed for specific regional averages (e.g., Spanish or UK sizing), which don’t translate well for global customers.
Who Decides What Counts as ‘Plus Size’?
The definition of plus size is another hotly debated issue. Many retailers label anything above size 8 or 10 as ‘plus size’, even though the average American woman wears a size 14 to 16, with an average weight of 165 pounds according to the CDC. As a result:
- Shoppers above a certain size rarely see themselves represented by models, unless it’s specifically labeled as ‘plus size’ fashion.
- This fuels unnecessary stigma and perpetuates the belief that clothing options should mostly exist for those who fit within a specific, narrow range of sizes.
As fashion educator Jane Wilson says, “The fashion industry isn’t being smart and is sinking the self-esteem of women who wear above size 16.”
The Psychological Impact of Sizing
Why does something as simple as a number on a label wield so much power over our self-perception? The answer is complex and rooted in Western beauty standards that glorify thinness. When shoppers see or try on clothing with smaller numbers, they may feel validated. When forced to size up, even if just due to brand inconsistency, it can lead to frustration, embarrassment, or self-doubt.
However, knowledge is power. Studies indicate that when consumers are aware of the manipulation behind vanity and humility sizing, these psychological tactics no longer have the same impact. Experienced shoppers and fashion insiders, for example, are much less likely to be swayed by the number and focus more on actual fit.
What Can Shoppers Do?
Given the lack of standardization and the psychological games played by brands, how can you avoid sizing nightmares?
- Don’t Trust the Number: Ignore the label size whenever possible; brands’ standards are inconsistent.
- Use Measurements: Find your body measurements and compare them to the specific size chart of each brand or retailer. Some sites offer ‘find my fit’ tools, but often your own tape measure and a close reading of charts work best.
- Focus on Fit: Consider not just size, but body proportions, shape, and how a garment fits your unique figure. Bodies are not and never have been standardized.
- Be Vocal: Brands are beginning to admit inconsistency. As a customer, you can demand clearer communication and give feedback to reward those brands that offer detailed sizing guides or more diverse models.
Is Real Change Coming?
There may be glimmers of hope. The controversy surrounding returns (such as H&M’s plan to charge for in-store returns) and the increasing outcry over inconsistent sizing has made some brands take notice. For example, H&M recently acknowledged it must improve sizing consistency. Still, progress is slow, and change is likely to come from a combination of consumer pressure and more advanced, inclusive measurements—not simply a top-down shift by brands.
Why Sizing Will Likely Always Be Flawed
The truth is, standardizing women’s bodies is an impossible task. Bodies come in unlimited shapes, proportions, and sizes, making it unrealistic to expect any single, universal sizing system to do justice to everyone. The best solution for the foreseeable future is transparency, better communication, and a real focus on how clothes feel—rather than how the numbers look.
Frequently Asked Questions (FAQs)
Q: Why do women’s clothing sizes vary so much between brands?
A: Sizes vary because there’s no centralized authority or standard. Brands use different data and marketing strategies (like vanity or humility sizing), and their garments may be designed for regional or aspirational body types.
Q: What was the original basis for women’s size charts?
A: The first major standard came in 1958, based mostly on the measurements of white women and biased samples of poorer or very fit women, creating a starting point that didn’t represent the general population.
Q: What is vanity sizing, and how does it affect shoppers?
A: Vanity sizing labels clothes with smaller numbers than actual measurements, making shoppers feel slimmer. This increases their confidence and can lead to more sales, but further confuses sizing between brands.
Q: Why do some brands run much smaller than others?
A: Brands often use sizing systems informed by regional body averages or market positioning. For example, Spanish or Asian brands may use slimmer standard measurements than American brands.
Q: How can I avoid sizing confusion when shopping?
A: Rely on your actual measurements instead of label sizes, check each retailer’s specific chart, and focus on clothes that suit your body’s shape and proportions rather than chasing a particular number.
Q: Will clothing sizes ever become standardized?
A: Unlikely—there are too many body types, and global brands cater to varied markets. However, better transparency and measurement-based guides may ease the confusion over time.
Ultimately, the best advice is to stop seeing the number as a reflection of your worth. The only size that matters is the one that fits—and feels—right for you.
References
- https://theflorala.com/6947/life/fashion-industry-forces-unrealistic-expectations-on-women/
- https://www.cosmopolitan.com/uk/fashion/a45557843/inconsistent-sizes-high-street-shops-humility-sizing/
- https://www.cosmopolitan.com/style-beauty/fashion/news/a44774/women-clothing-sizes/
- https://fashionispsychology.com/why-am-i-not-the-same-size-in-shops-anymore-cosmopolitan/
- https://www.cosmopolitanme.com/body/323-this-is-why-youre-a-different-clothing-size-in-every-shop
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