Spring 2016 Fashion Ads: A Close Look at Diversity’s Progress

Examining the shifting landscape of race and representation in Spring 2016 fashion advertising campaigns.

By Medha deb

Created on Oct 2, 2025

Examining the shifting landscape of race and representation in Spring 2016 fashion advertising campaigns.

Spring 2016 Fashion Advertising: How Far Did Diversity Go?

The conversation around racial representation in fashion has grown louder each year. In Spring 2016, fashion ad campaigns demonstrated progress—though the industry still fell short of genuine inclusion. Drawing on a comprehensive report examining 236 campaigns and over 400 models, this article explores who got featured, which brands led (and lagged) in diversity, and what the numbers mean for the ongoing push toward greater equity in fashion imagery.

The Numbers: Breaking Down Diversity in Spring 2016 Campaigns

A comprehensive analysis by theFashionSpot reveals both encouraging changes and areas of ongoing concern when it comes to diversity in Spring 2016’s biggest fashion ads. Of the 422 models and celebrities featured in 236 major global print campaigns,

78.2% were white
21.8% were women of color—including Black, Asian, Latina, and mixed or other non-white backgrounds

While this marks a notable increase compared to previous seasons, especially for Latina and Black models, the figures also underscore how much further fashion needs to go for authentic inclusion.

Model Demographics by Percentage

Ethnic Group	Spring 2016 (%)	Fall 2015 (%)
White	78.2	84.7
Black	8.3	4.4
Asian	4.0	6.2
Latina	3.8	1.7
Other/Mixed	6.7	3.0*

*Estimated; as data for “Other/Mixed” not separately reported in all sources.

Progress and Setbacks: Comparing to the Runways

Interestingly, Spring 2016’s ad campaigns, while more inclusive than prior years, fell just short of the diversity seen on the season’s runways. Nonwhite models accounted for 24.8% of fashion show castings in the same period, outpacing advertisements by a few percentage points . This persistent gap underscores how, even as brands seek to appear progressive in highly-visible events like runway shows, their marketing investments and brand imagery often lag behind in diversity.

Racial Representation Over Time: A Closer Look

White dominance persists. Despite a drop from nearly 85% in Fall 2015, over three-quarters of campaign models were still white—highlighting deep inertia around casting norms .
Black and Latina models doubled. Both saw their representation approximately double season-over-season, a statistically meaningful gain, but still hover in the single digits—8.3% and 3.8% respectively.
Asian model representation slipped. Unlike other groups, bookings for Asian models fell by more than two percentage points to just 4% in ad campaigns, suggesting uneven progress across groups.

Brands Getting It Right: Standout Inclusion in Spring 2016

Some fashion labels made explicit efforts to include models of color and a broader range of identities in their advertising. Among the most notable:

Calvin Klein deployed a sprawling, celebrity-heavy #mycalvins campaign featuring people across races and backgrounds, echoing a millennial ethos of individuality and visibility.
Alexander Wang‘s #wangsquad ad blitz showcased a diverse cast—including not only professional models but also musicians and cultural figures like Aluna Francis and Makonnen Sheran—intentionally blurring lines between fashion editorial and popular culture .
Marc Jacobs, a longtime advocate for diverse casting, issued a campaign described as a “visual diary”—featuring 50 women, many not traditional models, curated for their inspiration and impact as much as their looks. This approach highlighted individuality and the narrative of “personal America” as much as trendsetting style .

Quote from Marc Jacobs about his campaign:

“This season’s ad campaign represents a series of connected events; a visual narrative. It is a personal diary of people who have and continue to inspire me and open my mind to different ways of seeing and thinking… Collectively, they embody and celebrate the spirit and beauty of equality.”

Who Missed the Mark? Brands Lacking Diversity

Not every brand kept pace with the shifting conversation. Spring 2016’s least diverse print campaigns include:

Versace
Saint Laurent
Forever 21—a surprise, given the brand’s diverse customer base
Miu Miu
BCBGMaxAzria

All of the above cast three or more women in their main campaigns but included zero women of color . These omissions were especially poignant given the industry’s intent push (and consumer demand) for visible inclusivity.

The Shift Beyond Skin Tone: Gender and Identity in Campaigns

2016 also marked a pivotal moment concerning gender diversity. H&M notably featured Caitlyn Jenner, an Olympian, activist, and transgender icon, as the face of one campaign. While business interests likely played a role, the move nevertheless sparked important mainstream discussions about representation and gender identity.

Jenner’s inclusion illustrated how gender expression was becoming part of the diversity discussion, not just as a publicity tactic but as a reflection of real societal changes.
Inclusive messaging offered by these campaigns underscores that fashion, at its best, can both mirror and shape public attitudes around broader identity issues .

Why Representation Matters

Fashion imagery is more than just aesthetics—it helps set the standard for beauty and acceptance in the wider culture. Consistent underrepresentation can have broader consequences:

It enforces notions of whose beauty counts and whose stories deserve visibility.
Brands making inclusive choices offer alternatives to outdated norms, helping individuals from all backgrounds see themselves reflected in the media they consume.
The shift toward greater diversity may also open economic opportunities, as advertisements can resonate with and empower a wider range of consumers .

Industry Voices: Critical Response and Continued Pressure

Figures like Chelsey Jay of Models of Diversity articulated persistent disappointment with white dominance—both on the runway and in campaigns:

“It truly is disappointing that year after year the fashion industry continues to prove that it may be current in terms of looks on the runway, but it is not current when it comes to its old-fashioned, dated vision on inclusion. It is so damaging to society that the industry still allows for white dominance.”

Advocates argue that such disparities are not merely cosmetic but have real social implications beyond the world of style, reinforcing perceptions of hierarchy and value tied to race .

Diversity on Magazine Covers: The Parallel Story

While the main focus of Spring 2016’s diversity conversation centered on advertising and runways, magazine covers, as another barometer of mainstream visibility, demonstrated a similar—but slightly stronger—trend:

In 2016, 29% of magazine cover models were women of color—a 6.2% improvement from 2015.
Leading publications like Teen Vogue pushed the envelope, featuring women of color on more than 60% of its covers .

Looking Forward: The Road Ahead for Fashion Diversity

Spring 2016 saw meaningful steps forward in ad campaign representation, but real parity remains elusive. As public pressure builds and new generations of consumers demand better inclusion, brands will likely continue to experiment with both casting and messaging. However, ongoing scrutiny—by watchdogs, activists, and industry insiders—remains crucial to ensuring that progress is both authentic and sustained, not just a passing trend.

Frequently Asked Questions (FAQs)

Q: How was model diversity measured in Spring 2016 fashion ads?

A: Diversity was measured by calculating the proportion of models of color (Black, Asian, Latina, and non-white mixed backgrounds) out of the total number of models featured in 236 major print fashion campaigns.

Q: Which brands featured the most inclusive campaigns?

A: Marc Jacobs, Calvin Klein, and Alexander Wang were recognized for casting a notably diverse array of models and influencers, including nonprofessional and nonwhite faces.

Q: Was diversity in advertising similar to that on the runway?

A: Advertising lagged behind the runway by about three percentage points in Spring 2016—a sign that brands often prioritize more visible events for diversity while playing it safer in traditional ads.

Q: Has representation for Asian and Latina models improved?

A: Representation for Latina models roughly doubled to 3.8%. However, Asian model representation slipped from 6.2% to 4% compared to the previous season’s ads.

Q: Why is casting diversity in fashion campaigns so important?

A: Diverse casting helps combat narrow standards of beauty, affirms cultural and racial identities, and expands consumer engagement by ensuring that more women see themselves reflected in media.

Key Takeaways

Spring 2016 saw record increases in the representation of Black and Latina models in global fashion ads.
While the number of nonwhite models rose, over 78% of campaign models were still white, pointing to ongoing systemic barriers.
Brands that leaned into genuine diversity—Marc Jacobs, Alexander Wang, and Calvin Klein among them—were both celebrated and set a precedent for what inclusion looks like beyond simple tokenism.
Continued vigilance by media, activists, and consumers is essential to ensure these gains translate into lasting change.

References

Author

medha deb

Medha Deb is an editor with a master's degree in Applied Linguistics from the University of Hyderabad. She believes that her qualification has helped her develop a deep understanding of language and its application in various contexts.

Read full bio of medha deb