How Politics Took Over New York Fashion Week 2017
Designers and models used the New York Fashion Week 2017 runways to champion activism, unity, and bold political expression.

New York Fashion Week (NYFW) Fall/Winter 2017 was unlike any previous season. The typical focus on sartorial trends gave way to a more urgent and striking atmosphere as designers, models, and activists reclaimed the runway as a powerful platform for political protest and social unity. In the wake of a fraught election cycle and a new administration whose policies stirred significant controversy—especially among creative communities—the catwalks of NYFW resounded with voices demanding inclusion, equality, and action.
Why Was NYFW 2017 So Politically Charged?
Traditionally, designers have avoided overt political messages, wary of alienating broad audiences and protecting their bottom lines. However, the 2016 U.S. presidential election and the policies that immediately followed, such as the executive order on the so-called “Muslim ban,” awakened a new sense of urgency. What resulted was a cascade of activism, with NYFW 2017 emerging as a nexus for dissent, solidarity, and hope.
- Runways transformed into spaces for protest and empowerment, with many designers openly opposing newly enacted government policies.
- The Council of Fashion Designers of America (CFDA) unified support for Planned Parenthood, a critical moment for women’s reproductive rights.
- From show production to statement apparel, nearly every element delivered a message.
Major Political Moments and Designers at NYFW 2017
The following designers and labels made particularly bold political statements with their collections, show formats, or campaign associations. Here we chronicle each story, their distinctive approaches, and the wider impact on fashion’s intersection with activism.
Mara Hoffman: Elevating the Women’s March
Mara Hoffman’s show launched with a potent message by inviting the four national chairs of the Women’s March on Washington—Bob Bland, Tamika Mallory, Carmen Perez, and Linda Sarsour—to deliver a speech on unity, justice, and representation. With hands raised, they set the tone for a show dedicated to “women whose songs are not yet sung.”
- Show notes invoked themes of solidarity for the underrepresented, the undocumented, and the silenced.
- The collection exuded celebratory feminism and garnered a standing ovation.
Prabal Gurung: The Runway as a Rally
Prabal Gurung’s presentation made headlines for its models clad in graphic T-shirts with slogans such as “Our minds, our bodies, our power,” “We will not be silenced,” and “Yes, we should all be feminists.”
- The finale saw models of diverse backgrounds walking together, each wearing a politically-charged slogan, amplifying the message for broadcast and social media.
- These T-shirts became viral moments and were widely covered in mainstream media, linking fashion’s role to the larger protest culture of the moment.
Talbot Runhof: Words as Shields
At Paris Fashion Week, Talbot Runhof closed its March 4 show with a parade of knits branded with phrases like “Persist,” “Lie to me,” and “Unpresidented.” The word “Sad!” appeared as a knowing wink at the president’s Twitter lexicon.
- Co-founder Johnny Talbot stated: “If you have a platform to say something and you don’t, then shame on you.”
- This display reinforced the idea that clothing could serve as both shield and billboard.
Ashish Gupta: Glitter, Slogans, and Satire
During London Fashion Week, Ashish Gupta’s models glittered in slogan tees bearing phrases such as “More Glitter, Less Twitter.” With faces painted in Mexican wrestling mask styles, the presentation mixed humor with sharp critique.
- Each look included a tongue-in-cheek or pointed phrase about contemporary politics, serving to both entertain and provoke thought.
Alice & Olivia: Murals for Unity
Alice & Olivia spotlighted a mural as its show’s centerpiece, bearing the message “Be the change you wish to see in the world.” The collection referenced icons such as Angela Davis and Gloria Steinem, fusing style with statements on empowerment.
- Looks channeled themes of resistance, from embroidery to patches echoing civil rights and women’s liberation movements.
Adam Lippes: Supporting Planned Parenthood
Adam Lippes placed pink Planned Parenthood-supporting pins on his models, unmistakably tying his collection to support for reproductive rights.
- This small but significant gesture was echoed across the industry, turning the pin into a badge of shared principled identity.
Creatures of Comfort: ‘We Are All Human Beings’
This show opened with models wearing T-shirts simply stating “We are all human beings,” a clear call for empathy that countered divisive rhetoric.
- The message set a tone of inclusivity, reminding attendees and media that fashion can push for basic humanitarian ideals.
Jonathan Simkhai: Protest Pins and Donations
Jonathan Simkhai’s guests received white Planned Parenthood pins and show notes requesting donations to the ACLU and UN Refugee Agency.
- These calls to action extended the runway’s influence far beyond the show itself, mobilizing financial and social support for causes under threat in the new political climate.
LRS Studio: Disruptive Imagery
LRS Studio used models carrying bouquets of flowers dyed to mimic rainbow flags—a symbol of LGBTQ+ pride and inclusivity.
- Set design and soundtrack choices played into an ethos of disruption and defiance.
Christian Siriano: Standing for Equality
Siriano, already known for dressing women of all sizes and backgrounds, continued his streak of championing body positivity and equality, reminding critics and fans alike that social issues have always been part of his aesthetic.
The Row: Subtlety in Protest
The Row took a more subtle approach, featuring mostly all-black outfits as a silent statement of mourning and protest. Here, minimalism functioned as commentary.
Tommy Hilfiger: The White Bandana Movement
Pioneered by Business of Fashion’s #TiedTogether campaign and embraced by Tommy Hilfiger, the white bandana became a symbol of inclusivity.
- Models walked with bandanas on their wrists in a gesture of acceptance and unity across all lines of difference.
Cinq à Sept: Catwalk of Conscience
Cinq à Sept sent out models in jackets and dresses inscribed with empowering, rebellious texts—an aesthetic strategy to literally wear your values on your sleeve.
Gypsy Sport: Remembering the Marginalized
Gypsy Sport’s presentation highlighted marginalized voices, referencing intersectional issues such as race, gender identity, and poverty in both wardrobe and show design.
Public School: Satirical Slogans
Public School co-opted presidential campaign language with its own “Make America New York” hats and paraphernalia, cleverly repurposing a slogan for urban diversity and resistance.
Soundtracks and Set Design: Protest Beyond Clothing
Designers such as Calvin Klein, Cushnie et Ochs, Chromat, Telfar, Tracy Reese, and Monse voiced their resistance not only through clothing but through the soundtrack—some playing protest songs, others using spoken word to convey solidarity.
The Tiffany Trump Effect and Fashion’s Culture Clash
One of the week’s most controversial topics was the visible presence of Tiffany Trump in the front rows of multiple NYFW shows. Her attendance generated both awkwardness and discussion amid the industry, many of whom viewed it as incongruent with the political consensus of most designers and audiences.
- Designers were deeply divided: some made room for her, asserting that “fashion is for the people” (as stated by Philipp Plein when her team reached out), while others saw her attendance as an unwelcome intrusion.
- Her seating drama, especially at Plein’s show, sparked defense from celebrities (including Whoopi Goldberg) and highlighted ongoing questions about who gets to belong in fashion circles.
- Several designers, including Marc Jacobs and Derek Lam, made public statements about refusing to dress members of the new First Family, underscoring the industry’s new assertiveness.
Risk, Response, and the Future of Political Fashion
Designers acknowledged the inherent professional and creative risks in adopting bold, politicized stances. Yet, the post-election climate compelled many to use their brands for more than commerce. According to designers like Mara Hoffman and Prabal Gurung, “there is too much at risk” to stay silent.
- Not all attendees were comfortable, but the consensus was that fashion now had a duty to act as a cultural commentator and leader.
- Many collections became conversation starters, inviting dialogue on what it means for an industry built on image and accessibility to champion those left at the margins.
- The week’s shows proved memorable for activism as much as for aesthetics.
Table: Political Statements at NYFW 2017 by Key Designer/Brand
Designer/Brand | Political Statement | Method/Medium |
---|---|---|
Mara Hoffman | Celebration of Women’s March | Guest Speakers, Feminist Messaging |
Prabal Gurung | Women’s and Human Rights | Slogan T-Shirts |
Talbot Runhof | Exposing Fake News & Lies | Text Emblazoned Knitwear |
Ashish Gupta | Sarcastic Critique of Leadership | Slogan Tees, Dramatic Makeup |
Alice & Olivia | Civil Rights Icons | Mural Backdrop, Embroidered Text |
Adam Lippes | Support for Planned Parenthood | Pins on Clothing |
Tommy Hilfiger | Inclusivity and Solidarity | White Bandanas |
Public School | Urban Diversity | Satirical Slogans |
Frequently Asked Questions (FAQs)
Q: Why did so many designers take political stands at NYFW 2017?
A: The aftermath of the 2016 elections and executive policies led many designers to use NYFW’s global stage to advocate inclusion, unity, and justice, reflecting both personal convictions and the concerns of their diverse communities.
Q: Were these actions unique to New York Fashion Week?
A: No. Designers in London, Milan, and Paris also used their runways for protests and sharp political statements during their respective fashion weeks.
Q: How did audiences respond to the politicization of the runways?
A: Audience reactions were mixed; while many applauded the activism as necessary, others felt fashion should remain apolitical. However, the overall effect was an energized, newsworthy Fashion Week.
Q: What impact did the political statements at NYFW have on the fashion industry?
A: The movement set a precedent for fashion as a channel for activism, solidifying the runway as a powerful platform for social change and influencing how future collections are conceptualized and presented.
Key Takeaways: Fashion’s Future is Fearlessly Vocal
- NYFW 2017 forged a new role for designers, catapulting them into the spotlight as creative activists.
- Expect future fashion weeks to continue the trend of outspoken campaigns, using catwalks as launchpads for social and political change.
- The legacy of NYFW 2017 is a vibrant reminder that style and substance are not mutually exclusive—and that in turbulent times, unity sometimes starts with what you wear.
References
- https://www.cosmopolitan.com/style-beauty/fashion/a8878476/tiffany-trump-at-fashion-week/
- https://www.thefashionspot.com/runway-news/735771-designers-get-political-new-york-fashion-week/
- https://www.cosmopolitan.com/style-beauty/fashion/g8776847/politics-new-york-fashion-week-fw-2017/
- https://amsterdamnews.com/news/2017/02/16/cosmopolitan-review-february-16-22/
- https://www.aol.com/lifestyle/2017-02-17-nyfw-fall-2017-political-statements-21716440.html
- https://fashionista.com/2017/02/fashion-politics-nyfw-fall-2017
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