An Open Letter to the Beauty Industry: Championing Black-Owned Brands
A hard look at the beauty industry’s promises to Black-owned brands, and what must be done for lasting, authentic change.
An Open Letter to the Beauty Industry: Don’t Let Another Black-Owned Brand Disappear
For years, the beauty industry has celebrated its supposed “inclusion revolution”—with bright spotlights, glossy campaigns, and social media applause for Black-owned beauty brands. Yet, while the rhetoric around diversity is ever-present, the hard realities for Black founders have barely shifted. As beloved brands quietly shutter and funding dries up, the community must face a simple, devastating truth: applauding Black entrepreneurship isn’t enough. If the beauty world wants true equity, its support must go far deeper than performative gestures. It’s time to demand more—much more.
When Promises Fade: The Crisis Facing Black-Owned Beauty Brands
At the peak of the industry’s diversity push, Black-owned brands like Fenty Beauty and SheaMoisture became household names, paving the way for countless new founders. Their success seemed to signal a “new normal” — one where shelves would finally reflect the diversity of everyday consumers. But as years pass, cracks in this new narrative are impossible to ignore:
- Store shelves are still limited: Despite pledges from retailers, Black-owned brands often occupy only a fraction of shelf space, frequently found in segregated or specialty sections—reinforcing the notion that these brands are niche, not mainstream essentials.
- Structural barriers remain: Black founders face well-documented hurdles, from lack of mentorship and industry connections to limited manufacturing and research access compared with legacy counterparts.
- Visibility and funding challenges: Marketing dollars dominate consumer awareness, leaving most Black-owned brands unable to compete with the advertising power of larger, legacy companies.
- Temporary trends, not lasting change: After moments of social reckoning or during Black History Month, support surges—then wanes, with few structural improvements remaining.
The closure of innovative brands, despite high praise and loyal followings, lays bare a systemic industry failure. The risk isn’t only the loss of a product—it’s the erasure of voices, vision, and cultural influence essential to true diversity in beauty.
What Black-Owned Brands Need: Beyond Hashtags and Spotlights
Industry leaders, conglomerates, and retailers have often focused on performative gestures—awards, grants, or annual social media campaigns. But for meaningful progress, the following changes are urgent:
- Investment in Infrastructure
- Black founders often wear multiple hats—managing everything from product development to operations—because they lack the resources given to legacy brands.
- Grant-based support is not enough. Investment must include funding Black-led manufacturing facilities, research labs, and testing centers to level the playing field.
- Sustained Marketing & Distribution
- Shelf space is only a start. Brands need prime in-store placement, equal advertising budgets, and long-term promotional campaigns—not just seasonal pushes.
- Distribution must be reimagined: if Black-owned brands are simply placed but not promoted, they won’t sell and won’t last.
- Genuine Integration—Not Segregation
- End relegation of Black-owned brands to niche or “multicultural” corners. These products must be seen as core parts of the beauty ecosystem, reflecting all consumers’ needs.
- Mentorship, Partnerships, and Long-Term Contracts
- Build ecosystems of support: accelerator programs, top-tier networking, and partnership access are critical to compete with established global brands.
- Long-term, not short-term, contracts help these brands plan and grow.
- Manufacturing & Innovation
- Affordability challenges force many Black brands to use “white-label” products instead of truly innovative formulas. Financial support must allow for R&D that centers Black consumers—without compromise.
Cultural Impact: Why Black-Owned Beauty Brands Matter
Black-owned beauty has done more than diversify shades or develop curly-hair formulas—it has changed the very definition of beauty. Driven by founders who see identity, community, and cultural authenticity as inseparable from business, these brands:
- Elevate individual empowerment, not a single beauty standard.
- Innovate with clean, ethically sourced ingredients, challenging traditional, chemical-heavy beauty models.
- Foster representation and inclusivity, ensuring people of all backgrounds feel seen and celebrated.
Major players once dismissed Black women as a niche market; now, Black-owned brands have forced a reckoning, proving that “universal” beauty products can and must serve everyone. The impact is particularly profound in clean beauty, where these brands show that safe, eco-friendly formulas can simultaneously honor culture and deliver high performance.
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Spotlight on Black-Owned Innovators
Countless founders are rewriting the industry’s rules. Their visions and businesses exemplify the breadth and depth of Black-owned innovation:
- Briogeo: This haircare brand, founded by Nancy Twine, leads with clean, reparative products for all textures. Her commitment to non-toxic ingredients and inclusive performance is setting a new industry standard.
- Epara: Using African-sourced ingredients, founder Ozohu Adoh formulates skincare that addresses challenges like hyperpigmentation and dryness, combining tradition with science for all skin tones.
- Hyper Skin: Desiree Verdejo’s journey from battling acne to launching a top-selling vitamin C serum is a case study in consumer-driven innovation that is affordable and planet-friendly.
- Josephine Cosmetics: Founder Sholayide Otugalu delivers luxurious, organic makeup, showing that prestige and clean beauty can beautifully intersect.
- Klur: Former makeup artist Lesley Thornton turned her expertise into a vegan, high-end skincare line, blending sustainability with clinical efficacy.
- SheaMoisture: With roots tracing back to Sierra Leonean entrepreneur Sofi Tucker, the brand is not just a product innovator, but a champion for fair trade and economic empowerment—even providing grants and community investments.
What unites these brands isn’t simply their Black ownership—it’s their commitment to innovation, inclusion, and integrity in how beauty is defined and delivered.
The Power—and Responsibility—of Consumers
While industry stakeholders must lead, the role of consumers is pivotal. Experts and entrepreneurs stress that consumers’ spending habits wield huge influence:
- Black consumers collectively spend billions on beauty, yet much of that goes to non-Black brands.
- Intentional support—buying, recommending, amplifying—can build lasting demand for Black-owned brands, forcing retailers and conglomerates to pay attention.
- Challenging the myth that “Black-owned” means “for Black people only” is essential. Many brands create products designed to benefit all skin types, all textures, and all identities.
True industry transformation is unlikely to come top-down. It’s the collective, grassroots action—demanding better, more inclusive representation—that ultimately drives change. If the broader community wants Black-owned brands to succeed, their sustained support is non-negotiable.
Moving Beyond Celebration: The Road Ahead
It’s time to treat Black-owned beauty not as a temporary hashtag or a seasonal shelf, but as a permanent, invaluable part of the industry’s backbone. Here’s what must happen next:
- Establish and fund Black-led R&D and manufacturing facilities
- Integrate Black-owned brands into core retail and promotional strategies, not just in special features
- Expand accelerator programs to include lasting mentorship, access, and partnership opportunities
- Provide equal access to advertising, shelf placement, and marketing partnerships
- Challenge lingering misconceptions about who Black-owned brands are for, and actively work to build industry-wide literacy about their universal appeal and innovation
- Encourage consumers to recognize and harness their collective economic power for lasting industry evolution
The conversation isn’t about charity. It’s about recognizing Black-owned innovation, influence, and contribution as integral to the evolution of beauty—not a passing trend.
Frequently Asked Questions (FAQs)
Why do many Black-owned beauty brands struggle to survive?
Barriers such as restricted shelf space, unequal marketing investment, limited access to funding and manufacturing, and being treated as niche rather than mainstream essentials all combine to make sustainability a major challenge for Black-owned beauty brands. These hurdles remain, even as the industry touts its diversity progress.
How can consumers make a real difference?
By intentionally purchasing, recommending, and amplifying Black-owned brands, consumers build demand that drives both industry investment and retail visibility. Advocates stress that supporting these brands consistently—rather than just during cultural moments—pushes companies to create lasting change.
What are some standout Black-owned brands leading the way?
Brands such as Briogeo, Epara, Hyper Skin, Josephine Cosmetics, Klur, and SheaMoisture exemplify innovation and inclusion. They offer clean, effective products that cater to diverse needs while leading on cultural representation and business ethics.
Why is it important to invest in Black-led manufacturing and R&D?
Investment in Black-led facilities breaks the dependence on outside labs, enables custom formulations tailored for melanin-rich skin and textured hair, and helps brands achieve innovation rather than relying on generic, cost-driven formulas.
Do Black-owned beauty brands only serve Black consumers?
Absolutely not. Many Black-owned brands create formulas that benefit all skin tones, textures, and types. The “Black-owned” label reflects founding leadership and cultural perspective, not product exclusivity.
Table: Common Barriers vs. Needed Solutions for Black-Owned Beauty Brands
| Barrier | Needed Solution |
|---|---|
| Limited shelf space & niche placement | Core integration into main beauty aisles with prime placement |
| Unequal marketing budgets | Fair investment in advertising and promotions |
| Lack of manufacturing/R&D access | Build and fund Black-led research, labs, and manufacturing |
| Mentorship and networking gaps | Accelerator and mentorship programs with long-term scope |
| Public misconceptions about “Black-owned” | Educate that these brands serve all consumers and drive innovation |
| Short-term support post social highlight | Commitment to sustained, long-term industry support |
Inclusion is Not a Trend—It’s the Future
The beauty industry’s embrace of Black-owned brands has been uneven and, too often, hollow. Now is the moment to shift from celebration to action—ensuring Black founders are given the support, resources, and industry integration they have long deserved. For beauty to fulfill its promise of transformation and empowerment for all, Black-owned brands must not only survive—they must thrive, shaping what beauty means for generations to come.
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