Nykhor Paul: Speaking Truth to Fashion’s Inequality
South Sudanese model Nykhor Paul opens up about endemic racism in fashion, from makeup artist failures to her powerful online activism.
Nykhor Paul: Challenging Racial Bias in Fashion
South Sudanese model Nykhor Paul has become a powerful voice exposing deep-rooted racial disparities in the fashion and beauty industries. Her story—marked by resilience as a refugee and outspokenness as a professional model—highlights the institutional obstacles faced by women of color in an environment historically centered on Eurocentric standards. Through interviews, social media advocacy, and lived experience, Paul has prompted vital conversations about industry practices, the lack of representation, and the urgent need for lasting inclusivity.
Early Life and Modelling Breakthrough
Nykhor Paul was born in South Sudan, of the Nuer ethnic group. Due to civil conflict, she and her family sought refuge in Ethiopia, where she lived until her teenage years. In 1998, at the age of 14, Paul moved to Nebraska, USA. It was here, amidst the strangeness and challenges of starting over in a new land, that she was scouted as a model. By the age of 17, Paul had launched her full-time modelling career .
- Background: Born in South Sudan; raised in Ethiopian refugee camps before immigrating to the US.
- Discovery: Scouted as a teenager in Nebraska; began modeling full-time at 17.
- Career Milestones: Walked for internationally renowned designers like Vivienne Westwood, Rick Owens, Louis Vuitton, and Balenciaga .
Paul’s unique look and poise brought her success throughout major fashion capitals, yet, beneath the professional achievements lay a constant struggle for fair treatment and acceptance.
The Reality of Discrimination in High Fashion
Despite finding success on top runways, Paul faced systemic barriers largely invisible to outsiders but pervasively harmful to models of color. Among the starkest examples: makeup artists’ inability and sometimes unwillingness to cater to darker skin tones. This issue, seemingly trivial to some, directly impacted her confidence and professional presentation.
Makeup Mismatch: A Persistent Problem
Paul’s earliest experiences in modeling quickly introduced her to the anxiety and frustration caused by ill-prepared makeup teams:
- Lack of Proper Shades: Makeup artists at leading fashion shows frequently lacked foundation shades or powders suitable for her deep skin, forcing her to appear “gray” or poorly matched under lights .
- Self-Reliance: Other Black models advised Paul to bring her own foundation and powders if she wanted to look right for photos or the runway. She would often redo her makeup in the bathroom after the official artists had finished.
- Solidarity in Adversity: In Paris, Paul recalled a moment where five Black models gathered in the bathroom during Fashion Week to fix their makeup—evidence of the systemic neglect in preparing for diversity backstage .
Paul’s stories are not isolated incidents. Her high-profile open letter on Instagram—addressed to “white people in the fashion world”—echoes a frustration widely shared among models of color :
“Please don’t take this the wrong way but it’s time you people get your shit right when it comes to our complexion!”
Industry’s Double Standards and Tokenism
Paul also discussed the feelings of isolation that came with the industry’s approach to diversity:
- Feeling Like a Token: “I feel like a freak because I’m the only black one. I’m the black dot. Everyone else mixes in and boom, here comes the one super-dark girl.”
- Booking Disparities: Black models were often overlooked or expected to apologize for their blackness, as if their presence disrupted a homogenized standard of beauty .
- Progress is Not Completion: While Paul acknowledged improvements in some areas, she remained adamant that “my makeup shouldn’t be special. It’s normal.” True progress, she argued, means equal treatment across the board.
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Speaking Up: From Personal Experience to Public Advocacy
Paul’s refusal to stay silent about her experiences set her apart in an industry where conformity is tacitly encouraged. Early on, she wasn’t afraid to call out makeup artists directly. Over time, she realized the issue was structural—not individual—and needed collective attention:
- Outspoken from the Start: Paul was vocal with artists and management about the deficiencies in backstage preparation. Her willingness to address disparity head-on was unusual in a world where speaking out can mean fewer bookings or backlash .
- Evolution of Industry Responses: While some makeup professionals have improved and introduced more inclusive products, Paul emphasizes that blackness should never require special treatment or apologetics—it should be part of the professional standard.
- Amplifying the Message: Paul’s Instagram post gained more than 16,000 likes and sparked both fierce debate and support across the internet, shining a light on an often-silenced issue .
Community Reception and Backlash
Paul’s statements polarized the public:
- Support: Many, including fellow models like Jourdan Dunn, praised Paul’s frankness. Her courage gave space to others experiencing similar treatment to stand up and share their stories .
- Misunderstanding and Racism Allegations: Some detractors labeled her comments as racist, missing the core message regarding equity. Paul responded with further clarification, situating her critique within larger conversations about representation, inclusion, and structural racism.
Broader Implications: Beauty Standards & Cultural Representation
Paul has used her platform to address wider issues about European standards of beauty and their impact on women of color globally. She describes the damaging effects of a system that valorizes lighter skin, perpetuates colorism, and pressures non-white women to conform in ways that can lead to humiliation and alienation .
Key Points on Beauty and Colorism
- Eurocentric Ideals: Mainstream fashion and media have historically promoted features—slimness, light skin, blue eyes—that marginalize and exoticize Black women.
- Industry Consequences: Models of color struggle not only for fair treatment in makeup and styling, but also against broader forces that equate beauty with whiteness, leading to psychological and professional hurdles.
- Breaking the Silence: Women like Paul are part of a new wave of voices calling for accountability and change, making it clear that silence can no longer be the norm.
Product Inclusion and the Path Forward
Paul regularly points out that major cosmetics brands already produce high-quality makeup for dark skin—brands like MAC, Bobbi Brown, Makeup Forever, Iman, Black Opal, Lancôme, and Clinique:
- No Excuse for Exclusion: “There are plenty of brands that have all the colors. It’s up to professionals to prepare accordingly.”
- Call for Accountability: Makeup artists and designers should be required to accommodate all skin tones just as they do hair textures and body sizes.
- Cultural Competency: Building true diversity depends as much on skill and awareness as it does on policy. The industry must treat every hue, shape, and background with the same level of consideration and artistry.
Lasting Change: Lessons and Hopes
Nykhor Paul’s story, activism, and determination serve as catalysts for industry-wide soul-searching:
- Personal Pride: Paul celebrates the fullness and richness of her identity. “I am blue black and proud of it, I am beautiful in my own skin no matter how dark and scary people might feel around me. Embrace your blackness!”
- Industry Responsibility: For true transformation, casting agents, designers, and beauty brands must overhaul old norms rather than treating diversity as a trend.
- Ongoing Advocacy: Through her speaking, activism, and professional conduct, Paul presses the industry to live up to its claims of inclusivity and challenge systemic biases at every level.
Table: Common Challenges Faced by Models of Color
| Challenge | Description | Potential Solutions |
|---|---|---|
| Lack of Makeup Inclusion | Artists consistently lack shades for deep skin tones; models must bring their own. | Mandatory inclusive kits; training for diversity; accountability from agencies. |
| Tokenism in Casting | Only one or a few non-white models cast per show, creating feelings of isolation. | Broadening representation; systemic policy changes in casting and promotion. |
| Eurocentric Beauty Standards | Light skin, slim features prioritized, sidelining women of color. | Celebrating global beauty as standard; media and marketing reform. |
| Lack of Industry Support | Models face backlash or lost opportunities for speaking out. | Creating safe channels for reporting bias; empowering advocacy. |
Frequently Asked Questions (FAQs)
Q: Why did Nykhor Paul speak out about makeup in the fashion industry?
A: She experienced repeated neglect from makeup artists who didn’t stock or use appropriate products for dark skin. This exposed a broader trend of exclusion affecting many models of color and prompted her to demand industry-wide accountability .
Q: Has Nykhor Paul seen any improvement in the fashion industry’s handling of diversity?
A: Paul acknowledges some progress but insists it is not enough; she maintains that equal professional standards for all models have not yet been reached .
Q: What impact has her activism had on other models and the industry?
A: Her public posts gave voice and visibility to a marginalized issue, inspiring other models to share similar experiences and prompting some brands and professionals to reassess their practices .
Q: What solutions exist to resolve these disparities for models of color?
A: Solutions include using inclusive product lines, training makeup professionals in all skin tones, hiring artists with diverse skill sets, and making diversity part of standard practice rather than an afterthought.
Q: How does Nykhor Paul view her identity in the face of adversity?
A: She expresses deep pride in her heritage and encourages others to embrace their identity, recognizing beauty in every shade. Her activism is ultimately rooted in empowerment and self-acceptance.
References
- https://www.cosmopolitan.com/uk/beauty-hair/celebrity-hair-makeup/a37444/model-nykhor-makeup-artists-instagram/
- https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nykhor_Paul
- https://www.cosmopolitan.com/style-beauty/q-and-a/a43114/model-nykhor-paul/
- https://www.okayafrica.com/a-rising-south-sudanese-model-on-the-raw-emotions-of-returning-home/255301
- https://www.teenink.com/opinion/discrimination/article/995012/Women-of-Colors-Struggle-with-the-Beauty-Industry
- https://lipstiq.com/sudanese-model-calls-out-makeup-artists-for-unequal-treatment/
- https://globalgrind.com/4091460/model-nykhor-paul-blasts-fashion-industry-racism/
- https://hueish.com/too-dark-for-new-york-fashion-week/
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