Models Speak Out: The ‘Not Plus-Size Enough’ Dilemma in Fashion
Ten models challenge body labels and unrealistic standards in fashion, dispelling myths about what it means to be 'plus-size'.
In a world where the fashion industry’s perception of bodies is slowly evolving, so-called plus-size models still face a paradox: being told they aren’t “plus-size enough.” As the visibility of curve models expands, so do the demands and critiques they encounter—often from both within the industry and the public.
The Rise of Plus-Size Models and Their Challenges
The last decade has witnessed the fashion world embrace more diversity in body shapes. Influential figures like Myla Dalbesio as the face of Calvin Klein, Candice Huffine gracing elite calendars, and Ashley Graham launching lingerie lines signal a broader acceptance in modeling. Yet, even as plus-size models gain ground, the label itself brings another tier of scrutiny and contradiction. Despite representing body positivity, these models routinely encounter clients and critics who feel their bodies still don’t conform enough to plus-size expectations.
- Curve models often experience pressure to fit into a very specific idea of what “plus-size” should look like.
- Body modification—either through padding or digital retouching—remains surprisingly common, echoing similar issues found with so-called straight-size models.
- Models are repeatedly asked to change their bodies for jobs, highlighting the persistence of narrow beauty standards.
The Contradiction: Body Positivity Meets Body Policing
The sector that promotes self-love and body acceptance is regularly criticized for replicating the same restrictive ideals it claims to combat. Inga Eiriksdottir of IMG Models and ALDA notes, “A few times, clients have preferred me bigger…but we have always worked it out either with padding or in post,” underscoring the gap between public messaging and behind-the-scenes expectations.
What It Means to Be Told ‘Not Plus-Size Enough’
Ten prominent models shed light on the emotional and professional repercussions of being typecast not only by size, but by a long list of arbitrary criteria imposed by brands, agencies, and audiences.
Ali Tate: The Paradox of the ‘Plus-Size’ Label
Ali Tate points out the irony at the heart of fashion’s plus-size division: even as they proclaim inclusivity, brands continue to enforce strict requirements. Deadlines and contracts often come with subtle or overt requests for models to look a very particular version of “curvy”—one with sharp cheekbones and slim wrists to maintain a certain “glamour.” As Tate says:
The irony of the plus-size side of fashion is that they wear a facade that promotes positive body image yet are just as keen as the ‘straight-size’ — size 0 to 4 — side of the industry to alter the shape of the body in the clothes.
She adds that the market thrives on categorizing everything, leading to constant debates over whether a model is “plus-size enough” for the role.
Iskra Lawrence: Behind-the-Scenes and Social Media Judgment
Iskra Lawrence shares that nearly every interaction, whether with strangers or industry professionals, includes some form of commentary like, “You’re not plus-size enough.” The experience is especially pronounced on social media, where followers struggle to understand why she is considered plus-size—even as she is, she notes, ‘four sizes bigger than the average model.’
I think the term ‘plus-size’ is so dated. It was a term given to women long ago, and it doesn’t really have a place in fashion anymore.
- Lawrence emphasizes that most people do not grasp how small straight-size models really are, distorting expectations for curve models.
- She advocates for a representation of all sizes throughout the industry, not just within a separate “plus” category.
Georgina Burke: Living Between Categories
For Georgina Burke, the comments have focused on not fitting in either world: “Since I began modeling, I’ve been told countless times that I wasn’t big enough for a job, sometimes even in terms of specific body parts that were ‘too skinny.’” She recalls contemplating gaining weight just to book jobs, but recognized the toll this would take on mental health.
At times, I’ve felt like maybe there isn’t a place for someone like me in the plus-size world and that I’m essentially banging my head against a wall, but then where do I belong?
Navigating Size Labels: Industry Standards and Mental Health
Many models speak about the emotional labor that comes with code-switching between body standards. What is “plus-size” in one market may be average elsewhere, leaving models to constantly renegotiate their value:
- The fashion industry perpetuates categories that can isolate models whose bodies fall between standard definitions.
- Some are forced to try padding, digital alteration, or even unhealthy weight gain to book jobs.
- This battle affects not only careers but also mental well-being and self-esteem.
The Industry’s Double Standard: Tokenism and Real Inclusion
Despite the inclusion of curve models in major campaigns, true diversity is still lacking. Brands often hire a single “in-between” model to signal inclusivity without committing to broader representation. This practice is now criticized as superficial, with some questioning its long-term impact on industry norms.
Why Do These Mixed Messages Persist?
At the heart of the issue is the fashion industry’s history of rigid categorization:
- Labels and Sizing: Plus-size is often defined by clothing sizes set arbitrarily by retailers and brand tradition, not universal or scientific criteria.
- Visual Ideals: Glamour criteria—sharp cheekbones, certain bone structures—are often still valued more than authentic body diversity.
- Social Media Pressure: The rise of platforms like Instagram has intensified scrutiny, making models more vulnerable to collective ideas about “real” plus-size representation.
The Problem with the Term ‘Plus-Size’
The models widely agree that the term “plus-size” is outdated and unhelpful:
- It sets up a false binary between “straight-size” (often 0-4 in the US) and anyone larger, reducing infinite body diversity to two categories.
- It encourages audiences to judge who “deserves” representation, often reinforcing old beauty standards instead of breaking them.
- The focus on labels detracts from discussions of health, confidence, and style for all sizes.
Industry Reactions: Fashion’s Slow Progress Toward Real Diversity
The dialogue on what makes a model ‘plus-size enough’ reflects broader discussions about tokenism and profit-driven diversity. While brands frequently conduct body-positive campaigns, genuine structural change happens more slowly:
- Some brands have expanded sizing but limit the range of body types in their core advertisements.
- Trends toward diversity can reverse quickly, as the fashion world cycles between inclusivity when convenient, and returns to idealized thinness when it fits a new narrative.
- The pressure for plus-size models to remain both relatable and aspirational puts them at a double disadvantage compared to their straight-size peers.
Numbers That Don’t Lie: The Need for Representation
| Standard Category | Common US Size Range | Perceived Model Size |
|---|---|---|
| Straight-Size | 0–4 | Significantly smaller than average woman |
| Plus-Size | 10–18+ | Often still smaller than public expects |
| In-Between | 6–10 | Rarely represented by brands or agencies |
Even within the “plus-size” space, models regularly report being smaller than the average consumer, leading to even further confusion and backlash from those seeking authentic representation.
Changing the Narrative: Model Advocacy and Public Perception
As public dialogue around body positivity intensifies, more models are becoming vocal about these contradictions. Through interviews, social media, and organizing, they aim to:
- Promote awareness of the diversity of body shapes in fashion, beyond simplistic size categories.
- Encourage brands to hire a spectrum of models, reflecting the real variety seen in society.
- Shift public focus from labels to individual health, creativity, and self-worth.
Points for the Future of Representation
- Dismissal of Narrow Categories: Many believe fashion should abandon terms like “plus-size” and embrace a continuous spectrum of sizes and shapes.
- Supportive Environments: Brands, agencies, and audiences must step up to create safe and inclusive spaces for all models.
- Redefining Beauty Norms: Beauty cannot—and should not—be reduced to a dress size.
Frequently Asked Questions (FAQs)
What defines a plus-size model in the fashion industry?
Typically, “plus-size” refers to models wearing a US size 10 or above. However, the precise definition is fluid—many plus-size models fit into ranges smaller than the average consumer, depending on agency and market.
Why are plus-size models sometimes told they’re not ‘plus-size enough’?
Agencies and brands often have highly specific expectations for ‘plus-size’ roles, sometimes looking for exaggerated curves or arbitrary body characteristics. This results in models being deemed too small or not the right ‘type’ for a project—even within plus-size categories.
How do models feel about the term ‘plus-size’?
Many of the top models featured say the term is outdated and counterproductive. It enforces labels that divide women, instead of promoting body diversity across the industry.
Has fashion truly embraced body diversity?
While progress has been made, the industry still struggles with consistent and meaningful representation. Often, plus-size models remain tokens rather than the norm, and campaigns for inclusivity can be short-lived or surface-level.
What changes do models and advocates want to see?
Models call for the abandonment of rigid categories, complex size labels, and exclusionary standards. Instead, they seek ongoing, authentic representation and acceptance of the full spectrum of bodies in fashion and media.
Key Takeaways
- The fashion industry’s use of the ‘plus-size’ label often reinforces the same body ideals it claims to challenge.
- Even within the plus-size model category, there is intense pressure to conform to narrow physical ideals—and criticism from all sides.
- Most models argue for abolishing size-based labels and embracing all bodies as beautiful, paving the way for a more genuinely inclusive industry.
References
- https://www.cosmopolitan.com/style-beauty/fashion/news/a34481/models-react-to-being-called-not-plus-size-enough/
- https://www.irishtimes.com/life-and-style/Fashion/cosmopolitan-magazine-cover-criticised-for-promoting-obesity-1.3616717
- https://lynnburnsnutrition.com/2018/10/01/tess-holiday-and-cosmo/
- https://www.cosmopolitan.com/uk/fashion/style/a68127368/fashion-week-plus-size-model-representation/
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