How a Major Haircare Brand Is Combating Hair Discrimination

Discover how leading brands and advocates are fighting to eliminate hair discrimination and empower natural hair expression.

By Medha deb
Created on

Discrimination based on natural hair texture and protective hairstyles remains a deeply rooted issue in the United States, impacting countless individuals professionally, academically, and socially. Despite the growing attention to diversity and inclusion, there are still no nationwide laws that explicitly prohibit schools or businesses from discriminating against a person because of their hair. Recognizing this injustice, one major brand—Dove—has taken on the monumental task of challenging societal norms and pushing for legislative change to end hair discrimination once and for all.

Understanding Hair Discrimination

Hair discrimination typically targets people for wearing their hair in natural textures or protective styles such as afros, braids, twists, locks, and bantu knots—styles most commonly associated with Black identity. Such bias has tangible effects on people’s lives, dictating not only workplace opportunities but also self-image and mental health. Stories abound of students being suspended, job seekers being rejected, or employees being disciplined simply because their hair didn’t conform to Eurocentric standards.

  • Black women are 30% more likely than their peers to be notified of workplace appearance policies.
  • 80% of Black women feel pressured to change their natural hair to fit professional environments.
  • Discrimination is not limited to adults; children and teenagers in school settings are also subjected to policing of their natural hair.

The CROWN Act: Defining a Protected Trait

To bring about meaningful change, legislative intervention is crucial. The CROWN Act—short for Creating a Respectful and Open World for Natural hair—is a pioneering law that seeks to make hair discrimination based on texture and style illegal. By designating hair as a protected trait, the Act places hair on par with other legally protected categories like race and gender.

Key Points of the CROWN Act:

  • Prohibits discrimination against natural hair textures and styles commonly associated with race.
  • Ensures schools and workplaces cannot penalize individuals for their hair choices.
  • Shapes policy to recognize the importance of cultural expression and identity.

This legislative push is both a symbolic and practical step toward equality.

The Mission Behind the Movement

Change rarely happens in isolation. The CROWN Act is the result of a coalition between activists, politicians, and major brands. At the forefront is Dove, a Unilever brand, which alongside the CROWN Coalition—a group of over 100 organizations—has ignited a nationwide discussion on hair discrimination. Esi Eggleston Bracey, Executive Vice President and COO of Unilever North America’s personal care division, has been a visible leader in the campaign, championing both legislative and cultural change.

As Bracey emphasized at Curlfest, a festival dedicated to celebrating textured hair: “The CROWN Act makes hair a protected trait—the same way race and gender are protected by previous legislation.” This alignment with other forms of anti-discrimination law highlights hair’s powerful role in identity and personal freedom.

Cultural and Economic Impacts of Hair Bias

Race-based hair discrimination is not simply an aesthetic or personal issue. The impact stretches far beyond appearances, with wide-ranging consequences for economic mobility and wellbeing. Black women and men whose hair doesn’t conform to ‘mainstream’ standards can face:

  • Barriers to employment and promotion
  • Emotional and psychological stress, including feelings of shame and alienation
  • Microaggressions—frequent, subtle insults or invasions of personal space, such as colleagues touching hair without permission
  • A perpetual pressure to spend time, money, and energy altering their natural hair texture

As noted by anti-discrimination advocates, “Race-based hair discrimination perpetuates income gaps, which in turn limits access to economic progress and prosperity for Black citizens.” The persistent expectation to conform to Eurocentric beauty standards reinforces broader patterns of inequality and exclusion.

The CROWN Coalition: Advocacy in Action

The CROWN Coalition is not just about passing laws; it is about changing hearts, minds, and ultimately, culture. The coalition’s efforts have:

  • Driven the passage of hair discrimination laws in over 20 states, including New York, Virginia, and Nevada.
  • Seen the CROWN Act pass the House of Representatives and gain bipartisan support, though it continues to face obstacles at the federal Senate level.
  • Expanded partnerships, such as Dove’s collaboration with LinkedIn, to create inclusive workplaces and educate hiring managers about implicit bias.

The coalition is pushing for even broader national adoption of the Act, while also working to educate the public and influence corporate policies on diversity and inclusion.

Legislative Progress and Ongoing Challenges

While the progress is significant, the fight is far from over. As of mid-2024:

  • Over 20 states have laws inspired by or directly adopting the CROWN Act.
  • The federal version of the CROWN Act has successfully passed the House, but has met resistance in the Senate.
  • Opponents of the Act argue—often on unsubstantiated grounds—that it could ‘make workers less safe’ or create subjective enforcement challenges for employers.
State PassedState OutstandingNotes
New York, Virginia, Nevada, California, etc.Texas, Florida, most Southern & Midwest statesFederal law still pending full passage

Despite setbacks, the coalition continues to rally public support through petitions, outreach, and educational resources.

The Role of Beauty Brands in Social Change

Dove’s leadership in the CROWN Coalition is part of a much larger trend of brands leveraging their influence to advance social justice. This movement goes beyond simple campaigns or advertisements—major brands are using their platforms to:

  • Fund research and public awareness initiatives on hair discrimination
  • Lobby for policy changes at the local, state, and federal levels
  • Train staff, stylists, and hiring managers to recognize and overcome implicit bias
  • Support community-based organizations focused on equitable hair care and education

Esi Eggleston Bracey and the Dove team recognize that true progress requires shifting both laws and cultural norms. Their strategy is to create a ripple effect, making diversity and inclusion foundational in schools, workplaces, and salons.

Hair, Identity, and Professionalism

For decades, prevailing workplace policies commonly coded “neat” and “professional” as synonymous with straight or loosely curled hair—standards rooted in white, Eurocentric ideals. Such policies are often described as ‘race-neutral’ but are executed in ways that uniquely penalize Black employees and students.

This bias can lead to:

  • Discipline or termination of employees whose natural or protective hairstyles are deemed “unprofessional”
  • Limited career growth for individuals pressured to conform to aesthetic norms at odds with their cultural identity
  • Stark underrepresentation of Black professionals in senior and executive roles, perpetuating cycles of exclusion

Efforts to redefine “professionalism” in corporate and academic settings are therefore central to combating hair discrimination and advancing true inclusion.

Everyday Experiences: Microaggressions and Impact

Beyond formal policy, many Black individuals experience subtle, daily forms of discrimination—microaggressions—related to their hair. Common examples include:

  • Unsolicited comments about hair texture or style
  • Non-consensual touching or “petting” of hair
  • Expressions of ‘fascination’ that, while possibly well-intentioned, otherize and exoticize Black hair
  • The pervasive suggestion that natural styles are inherently less tidy or hygienic

These behaviors, though occasionally subtle, accumulate to create an alienating environment and can have lasting emotional consequences, including anxiety, shame, and anger. The cultural movement to “readjust your crown” is as much about reclaiming dignity in everyday encounters as it is about changing laws.

The Salon Experience: Gaps and Progress

Barriers to inclusive hair care do not end at the workplace or school doors. Many beauty schools and salons have struggled to provide adequate services for textured hair. This is due in part to:

  • Lack of comprehensive education on textured and curly hair in beauty school curricula
  • Limited professional training for stylists on techniques suitable for a range of hair textures
  • Scarcity of products formulated specifically for the needs of textured and natural hair

Industry-wide change requires salon professionals—and the institutions that train them—to prioritize cultural competency and technical skills for all hair types. Advocacy efforts are increasingly calling for updated curricula, certifications, and the integration of diversity and inclusion into professional standards.

Solutions: Building a More Inclusive Future

While legislation like the CROWN Act is vital, meaningful change requires a cultural transformation in how society views and values natural hair. Key steps toward a more inclusive future include:

  • Expanding legal protections for all textures and styles
  • Embedding cultural competency into both workplace policy and salon education
  • Training hiring managers and HR professionals to recognize and address racial bias
  • Promoting representation of Black professionals and textured hair in media, advertising, and leadership positions
  • Encouraging open dialogue and allyship to challenge stereotypes

Dove’s pledge to educate 1 million hiring managers and professionals, for instance, is a tangible step toward fairer workplaces and greater understanding. The combined force of policy, education, and representation promises a more equitable world—one where everyone is empowered to “do business, regardless of how our hair looks.”

Frequently Asked Questions (FAQs)

What is the CROWN Act?

The CROWN Act is a pioneering piece of legislation that stands for Creating a Respectful and Open World for Natural hair. It makes discrimination based on natural hair textures and protective hairstyles illegal in schools and workplaces in participating states.

Which states have passed the CROWN Act?

Over 20 states, including New York, California, Virginia, and Nevada, have passed versions of the CROWN Act. Efforts continue to secure its adoption in other states and at the federal level.

Why is hair discrimination a workplace issue?

Workplace hair discrimination creates barriers to employment, limits professional advancement, and perpetuates cycles of inequality by enforcing hair standards rooted in Eurocentric beauty ideals.

How can employers and schools support inclusion?

  • Revise grooming and dress code policies to eliminate subjective language about hair.
  • Provide diversity, equity, and inclusion training focused on cultural competency.
  • Foster open conversations about bias, equity, and intersectionality.

What can I do to support the movement?

  • Sign petitions advocating for the CROWN Act and anti-discrimination legislation.
  • Contact local and federal representatives to share your stance on the issue.
  • Educate friends, family, and colleagues about the significance of hair acceptance and cultural respect.

Final Thoughts

Hair is more than just a style—it is an expression of cultural heritage, personal pride, and identity. The campaign led by Dove and the CROWN Coalition to eliminate hair discrimination exemplifies the power of collective advocacy combined with corporate influence for genuine social change. As laws, business practices, and attitudes continue to evolve, the ultimate hope is that future generations will be able to wear their hair proudly and authentically—without fear, shame, or penalty.

Medha Deb is an editor with a master's degree in Applied Linguistics from the University of Hyderabad. She believes that her qualification has helped her develop a deep understanding of language and its application in various contexts.

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