Keratin Hair Treatments: Everything You Need to Know
The expert-approved guide to keratin hair treatments—covering the process, types, benefits, aftercare, risks, and everything in between.
Keratin hair treatments have become a mainstay of modern salons, especially for anyone battling frizz, dryness, or unruly texture. But are they right for you? This comprehensive guide answers all your questions about keratin—from how the process works to the best type for your hair, what to expect in the salon, how long it lasts, aftercare tips, and the newest formulas on the market.
What Is a Keratin Treatment?
A keratin treatment is a salon chemical process designed to smooth and shine frizzy, textured, or damaged hair. This semi-permanent process infuses hair with keratin—a key protein found in strands naturally—locking it into the cuticle via heat to reduce puffiness, smooth curls, and boost shine. Depending on the specific formula and your hair goals, keratin can leave hair pin-straight or simply tame frizz for softer, more manageable waves or curls.
- Keratin treatments are not the same as relaxers or chemical straighteners. They work by coating (not breaking) the hair structure.
- Treatments vary in strength, some engineered for full smoothing/straightening, others just to detangle or improve shine.
Who Can Benefit from a Keratin Treatment?
Keratin treatments are especially suited for people who struggle with:
- Frizz-prone, poofy, or thick hair that takes a long time to style
- Curly or wavy hair seeking smoother texture without permanent straightening
- Chemically-processed or color-treated hair needing extra shine and protection
- Clients wanting to cut down on daily blow-drying and straightening time
How Does a Keratin Treatment Work?
Though the exact steps can differ by brand and formula, the basic structure of a professional keratin treatment includes:
- Clarifying Shampoo: Hair is washed with a clarifying shampoo to remove product build-up and open the cuticle.
- Application: The keratin solution is painted onto sections of damp or dry hair.
- Processing Time: Solution sits for 20-60 minutes (timing depends on the formula and hair type).
- Blow-Dry: Hair is thoroughly blow-dried until 100% dry.
- Flat Ironing: High-heat flat iron is used to seal the keratin into each strand (temperature and number of passes is customized by hair condition).
Some treatments require you to leave your hair untouched (no washing, ponytails, or clips) for 24-72 hours after—while others have a same-day rinse step.
Types of Keratin Treatments
There are several keratin treatment formulas and technologies. The ideal choice depends on your hair goals, texture, and health.
| Type | Best For | Main Benefits | Key Notes |
|---|---|---|---|
| Brazilian Keratin Treatment (BKT) | Curly, frizzy, or coarse hair | Significant smoothing, frizz control | May use formaldehyde; dramatic shine |
| Brazilian Blowout | Fine to medium hair | Moisture retention, less frizz | Customizable; generally less aftercare |
| Coppola Keratin Treatment | Most hair types | Gentle, collagen/keratin blend | No harsh chemicals, can wash after 3 days |
| Express Keratin | Quick refresh, all types | Fast application, lighter smoothing | Lasts ~6 weeks, faster to apply |
| Japzilian Keratin | All types; want longest effect | Long-lasting straightness (up to 5 months) | Japanese + Brazilian hybrid technique |
| Cezanne | All hair types (including sensitive) | Formaldehyde-free, easier aftercare | Reduces blowdry time by 33-50% |
| Goldwell Kerasilk | Color treated, delicate hair | Keratin & silk blend, color protection | Formaldehyde-free |
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Keratin Treatment Process: Step-by-Step
Here’s what you can expect in the salon:
- Consultation: Your stylist will assess hair texture, discuss your styling goals, and advise on the ideal keratin formula and settings for your hair type.
- Cleansing: Shampoo with clarifying formula to remove oils and residue, essential for keratin absorption.
- Application: Keratin solution is brushed through small sections from scalp to ends, ensuring even distribution.
- Processing: Product is left to sit (typically 20-60 minutes depending on the solution and hair needs).
- Blow Dry: Hair is dried completely using a blow-dryer—sometimes with an initial rough dry before final styling.
- Sealing: Flat iron sections of hair at temps up to 450°F to fully bond the keratin and seal the cuticle (lower heat for damaged hair).
- Aftercare Instructions: Depending on treatment, you may be told to avoid water or certain styles for up to 3 days, or rinse out same day if formula allows.
Chemical Considerations: Formaldehyde and Alternatives
Some keratin formulas (especially older or cheaper versions) contain formaldehyde, which is released during the flat ironing step. Newer versions are either low-formaldehyde or formaldehyde-free, which reduces health risk and strong odors during the process. Discuss with your stylist which formula is being used, especially if you have sensitivities or prefer a gentler approach.
Benefits of a Keratin Treatment
- Minimal Frizz: Treatments drastically reduce frizz, keeping hair smooth even in humid conditions.
- Faster Styling: Speeds up drying time and reduces the need for hot tools at home.
- Smoother Texture: Hair is softer, shinier, and more manageable.
- Long-Lasting Results: Effects usually last 2-5 months with proper care.
- Color Protection: Some formulas help preserve color vibrancy and prevent fading.
Risks and Potential Downsides
- Formaldehyde Exposure: Inhaling fumes from formaldehyde-based treatments can irritate eyes, nose, and lungs. Ensure your salon is well ventilated, or opt for a formaldehyde-free formula.
- Hair Damage: High heat and strong chemicals can worsen damage, especially on already-compromised strands. Overdoing treatments can cause breakage.
- Allergic Reactions: Rare but possible. Always share any allergies with your stylist.
- Not Permanent: Results fade as hair grows out and treatment washes away.
- Cost and Upkeep: Salon sessions can be expensive, and many require maintenance products or periodic touch-ups.
How Much Does a Keratin Treatment Cost?
The price of a keratin treatment depends on several factors:
- Salon: Reputation, experience, and location can dramatically affect cost.
- Hair Length & Density: Longer, thicker hair often costs more due to increased product and time.
- Treatment Type: Express or partial treatments cost less than full smoothing processes.
- Formula/Brand: Top formulas or formaldehyde-free versions may cost more due to ingredient quality.
Average Cost: $250–$500 (USD) per session, with some express options as low as $100 and high-end salons charging $600 or more. Budget for tips and aftercare products as well.
How Long Does a Keratin Treatment Last?
Keratin results are semi-permanent. Depending on your hair type, formula used, aftercare, and how often you wash your hair, treatments usually last between 2-5 months. With less frequent washing, use of sulfate-free shampoos, and minimal heat styling, you can extend results even further.
Keratin Treatment Aftercare Tips
- Use a sulfate-free, gentle shampoo and conditioner to prevent stripping the keratin from hair.
- Avoid saltwater, excessive chlorine, or harsh sun exposure (wear a hat or use a UV protectant).
- Be gentle—don’t tie hair up, pin, or braid during the waiting period if your formula requires it.
- Wait before coloring: Consult your stylist about optimal timing if you want to dye your hair post-treatment.
- Book regular trims to keep ends healthy, since even smooth hair needs maintenance trims.
Who Should Avoid Keratin Treatments?
- Pregnant or breastfeeding individuals (due to potential chemical exposure—better to err on the side of caution).
- People with extremely sensitive or allergy-prone skin/scalp.
- Children or anyone with certain medical conditions—discuss with your doctor beforehand.
Keratin Treatment Results: What to Expect
Your results will depend on your starting hair texture, the exact formula, and how you care for your hair post-treatment. Here’s what most people notice:
- Wavy Hair: Smoother, looser waves, easier to style or straighten. Less frizz and puffiness.
- Curly Hair: Softer, elongated curls or waves, with significant frizz reduction. (True straightness may require repeated sessions or stronger formulas.)
- Coarse Hair: Improved softness and “weighted” result, which makes hair look less voluminous and more groomed.
- Straight Hair: Upgraded shine, silkiness, and easier detangling.
Alternatives to Traditional Keratin Treatments
- At-Home Keratin Masks: Can temporarily boost shine and softness but won’t deliver the same results as a salon-grade process.
- Chemical Relaxers: Permanently alter hair structure for true straightness, but may damage fragile hair types.
- Smoothing Blowouts: Offer short-term smoothness, typically using less-intense chemicals or just styling products.
- Custom Bonding/Smoothing Treatments: Newer offerings use different protein and amino acid technologies for customizable smoothing with less risk or odor.
Frequently Asked Questions
Q: Will a keratin treatment damage my hair?
A: When done by a trained professional using the right formula for your hair, keratin treatments are generally safe. Overprocessing, improper technique, or too-frequent treatments can lead to dryness, brittle ends, or breakage. Always start with a consultation.
Q: How soon can I wash my hair after a keratin treatment?
A: It depends on the formula. Traditional treatment requires 48–72 hours of no water or sweating, while express or “rinse-out” formulas may allow same-day washing. Your stylist will give clear instructions.
Q: Are keratin treatments suitable for color-treated or bleached hair?
A: Yes—keratin is often recommended for processed hair as it helps close the cuticle and enhances shine. Some formulas are specifically designed for color-treated hair. Ask your stylist which suits your color.
Q: Is formaldehyde in keratin treatments safe?
A: The FDA recognizes health risks from inhaling formaldehyde fumes. Many modern salons use low-formaldehyde or formaldehyde-free formulas, but always verify what’s being used and ensure good ventilation.
Q: How do I make my keratin treatment last longer?
A: Wash less frequently, always use sulfate-free shampoos, avoid saltwater/pools when possible, and minimize use of hot tools. Hydrating hair masks and leave-in treatments may help, too.
Q: Can I do a keratin treatment at home?
A: Some at-home kits exist but won’t match the strength or longevity of pro treatments and may pose risks if not used correctly. For best results, always book with a licensed professional.
Key Takeaways
- Consult with a pro: Each head of hair is completely unique. Personalized advice is crucial.
- Research your formula: Don’t be afraid to ask about chemicals—especially if you want a non-toxic, low-odor experience.
- Think about aftercare: Invest in the recommended shampoo and products to make the investment last.
- Be realistic: Results are semi-permanent, require maintenance, and are affected by your hair’s natural texture.
Done thoughtfully, a keratin treatment can be a transformative service—streamlining your routine, boosting confidence, and letting your natural shine take center stage.
References
- https://cuttershairdressing.com.au/blog/is-keratin-treatment-good-for-your-hair-a-comprehensive-guide-on-keratin-hair-treatment/
- https://ceonlinetrainingcourses.com/blog/keratin-treatment-instructions
- https://www.cosmopolitan.com/style-beauty/beauty/a29088613/keratin-hair-treatment-guide/
- https://www.cosmopolitan.com/uk/beauty-hair/hair/a28784190/keratin-treatment-new-chemical-free-braliz/
- https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XAVWFhLlNKQ
- https://www.cosmoprofbeauty.com/USA-804506.html
- https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ss5quwsGd74
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