How to Master the Stitch With Your X Braid: A Complete Guide

Discover all the tips, tricks, and step-by-step instructions for flawless stitch with your X braids, as featured on Cosmopolitan’s The Braid Up.

By Medha deb
Created on

How to Master the Stitch With Your X Braid

Stitch with your X braids have taken over the world of protective hairstyles with their crisp, defined parts and geometric flair. Showcased by expert stylists, these braids are as stylish as they are functional. Whether you’re new to braiding or looking to perfect your technique, this guide breaks down the entire process, highlights pro tips, and answers your biggest questions so you can wear your X braids with absolute confidence.

What Are Stitch With Your X Braids?

The stitch with your X braid is a precision-based, protective style that uses a special parting and braiding technique to create pronounced, criss-crossed rows often resembling “X” shapes across the scalp. Popularized on The Braid Up series by Cosmopolitan, these braids stand out for their neatness, dramatic visual appeal, and versatility.

  • Defined parts: Clean, sharp lines section each braid, highlighting the “X” pattern.
  • Protective benefits: Ideal for natural hair, helping to retain moisture and promote growth.
  • Styling options: Wear this braid style as a statement look or as a base for wigs and updos.

Supplies You’ll Need

Before starting, gather these essential tools and products to ensure crisp, flawless results:

  • Wide-tooth comb and rat-tail comb (for detangling and parting)
  • Edge control gel or strong-hold styling gel
  • Hair clips or sectioning clamps
  • Braiding hair extensions (if desired for extra length and fullness)
  • Styling mousse or finishing spray
  • Edge brush or toothbrush (for finishing touches)
  • Oiling spray or lightweight leave-in conditioner

Step-by-Step: Creating Stitch With Your X Braids

Follow this detailed breakdown, inspired by stylist Omobolanle Ajao’s expert demonstration on The Braid Up:

1. Prep Your Hair

  • Start with clean, detangled hair. Thoroughly shampoo, condition, and ensure your hair is fully dry.
  • Apply a leave-in conditioner or lightweight oil for moisture and flexibility.
  • Use a wide-tooth comb to detangle from ends to roots, and section off the hair for easier braiding.

2. Map Out Your Parts

  • Use a rat-tail comb to create sharp, geometric parts across the scalp. For the signature “X” effect, criss-cross your parts so each section intersects diagonally.
  • Apply edge control gel along the lines and use the tail of the comb for extra precision. Clean parts create the most striking effect.
  • Section off parts you’re not working on with hair clips to maintain neatness.

3. The Stitch Braiding Technique

  • Once a section is parted, apply styling gel at the base to keep flyaways contained.
  • With your pinky finger or a braiding tool, divide the section into small, horizontal pieces—this is called the “stitch” method.
  • Begin braiding by grabbing hair horizontally, weaving tightly while maintaining clear separation between each stitch.
  • If adding extensions, incorporate small amounts as you move down each braid for a uniform look and added length.

4. Maintain the “X” Shape

  • Pay close attention to how each braid is angled at the scalp. For the X pattern, cross the braid sections over one another as you progress, ensuring the criss-cross shape is prominent and symmetrical.
  • Secure braid ends with small elastic bands or seal with boiling water if using synthetic hair.

5. Finish and Style

  • Once all braids are complete, apply styling mousse generously to set the look and smooth any frizz.
  • Use an edge brush or toothbrush with edge control to slick down baby hairs around the hairline for a polished effect.
  • Mist lightly with a shine spray for an extra glossy finish.

Stylist-Approved Tips and Tricks

Perfecting stitch with your X braids comes down to practice and technique refinement. Here are some pro tips that make a big difference:

  • Section for symmetry: Spend extra time measuring and aligning your parts so the X shapes are balanced across your head.
  • Gel matters: Use a high-quality, flake-free gel for crisp parts and a long-lasting hold.
  • Consistent tension: Apply even pressure while braiding to ensure uniform stitches and avoid stress on your scalp.
  • Maintain scalp health: Keep your scalp moisturized with a lightweight oil to prevent dryness under your braids.
  • Don’t rush: The crispness of this look depends on precision. Take your time with parting and braiding for best results.

The Benefits of Stitch With Your X Braids

This braid style is more than just a statement look—it’s designed to promote hair health while letting your personality shine. Here’s why so many love it:

  • Protective style: Shields hair from environmental stressors and manipulations, promoting natural growth.
  • Versatile foundation: Functions as a base for wigs, updos, or other styles, offering endless creative possibilities.
  • Trendy sophistication: The sharp, geometric lines add an instant polished, fashionable edge to your look.
  • Low-maintenance: Once installed, these braids are easy to care for and style daily.

Maintenance: Keeping Your Stitch With Your X Braids Fresh

To enjoy your braids for up to six weeks without frizz or tension buildup, follow these maintenance steps:

  • Night routine: Sleep with a silk or satin scarf or bonnet to reduce friction and preserve your braids.
  • Moisturize regularly: Use a leave-in spray or light oil at least two to three times a week, focusing on your scalp and the length of your braids.
  • Wash with care: If you need to cleanse your scalp, use a diluted shampoo with an applicator bottle and rinse gently to avoid disturbing your style.
  • Touch up edges: Keep edges clean by regularly applying edge control and smoothing them with a brush.
  • Protect from build-up: Avoid heavy creams or products that can cause flaking near the parts.

FAQs: Stitch With Your X Braids

Q: How long do stitch with your X braids typically last?

A: When maintained with care and covered at night, this style can last 4-6 weeks. Some may keep it longer, but it’s best to remove and refresh to allow your scalp to breathe.

Q: Are stitch with your X braids damaging to my hair?

A: When properly installed—not too tight and well cared for—these braids are protective and help promote healthy hair growth. Too much tension, however, can cause breakage.

Q: Can I do stitch with your X braids on relaxed or straight hair?

A: Yes, though the style holds best on textured or natural hair. On finer hair types, use extra product and secure parts firmly to help braids maintain their shape.

Q: What type of extensions work best for this style?

A: Pre-stretched, Kanekalon synthetic hair is a favorite among pros for its easy blending and natural finish. Choose a texture and color that best complements your hair.

Q: How should I remove stitch with your X braids?

A: Start from the ends, gently unravel each braid, and use a detangling spray to prevent knots. Avoid rushing to prevent breakage or shedding.

Pro Secrets: Elevate Your X Braids

  • Embellish: Amp up your look with beads, cuffs, or colored thread stitched along select rows for a custom finish.
  • Freestyle parts: Experiment with zigzag or curved partings to put your own spin on the classic X pattern.
  • Finish with foam: Generously apply styling foam at the finish for extra hold and to tame frizz for weeks.

Table: Stitch With Your X Braid Routine

StepTaskKey Products/Tools
PrepWash, condition, detangle, moisturizeShampoo, conditioner, leave-in, comb
PartingSection and map X shapes with clean edgesRat-tail comb, edge gel, clips
Stitch BraidingWeave small sections into pronounced rowsBraiding hair, styling gel
FinishingSet style, slick edges, add shineMousse, edge brush, shine spray
MaintenanceWrap hair nightly, moisturize, touch up edgesSatin scarf, leave-in spray, edge control
  • X-shaped partings with bold, chunky braids and golden cuffs for an Afrofuturist vibe.
  • Intricate geometric rows combined with wavy, free-flowing ends for elevated contrast.
  • Paired styles: Stitch braids with Senegalese twists for a multidimensional texture effect.
  • Freestyle hidden shapes—including circles or hearts—incorporated for creative flair (inspired by braid battles and social media trends).

Pro Stylist Profile: Omobolanle Ajao

Omobolanle Ajao, a celebrated New Jersey-based hairstylist and recurring talent on Cosmopolitan’s The Braid Up, is renowned for her immaculate stitch braid artistry. Her attention to symmetry, use of modern parting tools, and creative vision have helped drive the popularity of X braids across social media and salons nationwide. Follow her for more braid inspiration and tutorials.

Stitch With Your X Braid: Final Thoughts

Stitch with your X braids offer a low-maintenance, elegant way to protect your natural hair while showcasing geometric creativity. With a little patience and the right prep, you can achieve this salon-quality look at home or elevate your next professional braiding session.

For more inspiration and tutorials, keep up with seasonal trends, watch the latest from The Braid Up, and experiment with your own signature braid styles.

Medha Deb is an editor with a master's degree in Applied Linguistics from the University of Hyderabad. She believes that her qualification has helped her develop a deep understanding of language and its application in various contexts.

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