Every Curl Type Explained and How to Care For Them
Discover the science, types, and best care routines for every wave, curl, and coil to help your hair thrive.
Understanding your natural hair texture is the foundation for healthy, beautiful hair. For anyone with waves, curls, or coils, the journey to embracing your unique pattern starts with identifying your curl type. This comprehensive guide breaks down every curl type using the classic Andre Walker system, provides expert techniques for determining your curl pattern, and shares the best care and styling tips for every type—empowering you to bring out the best in your natural hair.
What is the Curl Typing System?
The Andre Walker Curl Typing System classifies hair based on its natural texture, using both numbers (1–4) and letters (A–C). Each number refers to a broader category of hair—straight, wavy, curly, or coily—while the letters represent the tightness or width of the curl pattern within each category:
- Type 1: Straight hair
- Type 2: Wavy hair (subtypes 2A, 2B, 2C)
- Type 3: Curly hair (subtypes 3A, 3B, 3C)
- Type 4: Coily or kinky hair (subtypes 4A, 4B, 4C)
The system remains the go-to guide for stylists and consumers seeking to understand, discuss, and tend to textured hair. While it doesn’t capture all nuance or cultural diversity in hair, it’s a helpful foundation for anyone looking to decode their pattern and find the most tailored care routines.
How to Determine Your Curl Type
Professional stylists assess curl type by examining two key factors:
- Follicle shape at the root: A flat or oval follicle yields curlier hair, while circular follicles yield straight hair.
- Pattern after air drying: Wash your hair, towel-blot, then let it air dry or diffuse until it’s damp. Observe the formation:
- S-shaped waves: Indicate wavy (Type 2) hair.
- Corkscrew curls: Indicate curly (Type 3) hair.
- Z-shaped coils: Indicate coily (Type 4) hair.
Examining your hair in its most natural, product-free state gives the most accurate assessment. Most people have multiple patterns, especially when hair is mixed-textured.
Type 2: Wavy Hair
Type 2 waves are characterized by an S-shape that ranges from loose and fine to thick and defined. They usually respond well to lightweight styling and air drying, but are prone to frizz and can lose their shape easily. Let’s break them down further:
2A: Loose and Fine Waves
Type 2A hair features loose, fine S-shaped waves that often appear soft and shiny but lack volume. It rarely holds a curl, is susceptible to frizz, and can be weighed down by heavy styling products.
- Best products: Lightweight mousses and sprays. Avoid heavy creams and oils.
- Styling tips: Scrunch product in with your hands and let hair air dry for optimal wave definition.
2B: Defined S-Shaped Waves
Type 2B hair lies flat at the crown but develops more prominent S-shaped waves from mid-length to ends. The strands are thicker than 2A, with a texture that’s more prone to frizz.
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- Best products: Wave-enhancing sprays and light gels.
- Styling tips: Use a diffuser on damp hair to encourage waves; avoid over-brushing to prevent frizz.
2C: Thick, Voluminous Waves
Type 2C hair features fuller, coarser waves with a tighter S-pattern, often starting at the scalp. This type is usually thick, dry, and easily frizzes.
- Best products: Sulfate-free shampoos, deep conditioners, and hydrating leave-ins with aloe vera or flaxseed oil.
- Styling tips: Regular deep conditioning to lock in moisture, and gentle detangling after applying a leave-in conditioner.
Type 3: Curly Hair
Type 3 curls are generally springy, and well-defined, ranging from loose spirals to tight ringlets. They tend to be dry and require moisture, but can also frizz and tangle if not managed correctly.
3A: Loose, Shiny Curls
Type 3A hair features large, soft S-shaped curls about the diameter of sidewalk chalk. The curls have more body than waves but tend to be fine and are easily weighed down by product or humidity.
- Best products: Lightweight curl creams and gels designed to enhance curls without weighing them down.
- Styling tips: Apply creams while hair is damp and use fingers or a wide-tooth comb to encourage curl grouping. Air dry or use a diffuser for bounce.
3B: Bouncy Ringlets
Type 3B hair is made up of tight, springy ringlets with more volume and a coarse texture. Strands are typically the width of a marker and can become dry and frizzy without proper care.
- Best products: Moisturizing gels, creams, and curl-activating sprays.
- Styling tips: Rake product through with your fingers, then scrunch. Consider “plopping” your hair with a microfiber towel to boost definition.
3C: Tight, Corkscrew Curls
Type 3C hair features tight corkscrew curls with a dense, voluminous texture. Curls are about the size of a pencil and can be prone to dryness and shrinkage.
- Best products: Deep conditioners, rich leave-ins, and curl butters to prevent moisture loss.
- Styling tips: Apply leave-in conditioner and cream in sections. Use the shingling method (work product through each curl with fingers) for uniform curls and less frizz.
Type 4: Coily or Kinky Hair
Type 4 hair is defined by its tightly coiled or zig-zag shape, often appearing more voluminous due to shrinkage. This type is prone to dryness, breakage, and requires gentle, moisture-rich care routines.
4A: S-Shaped Coils
Type 4A hair forms tight, springy S-shaped coils about the size of a crochet needle. It holds moisture better than types 4B and 4C but still tends to be dry.
- Best products: Heavy creams, butters, and leave-ins for maximum moisture retention.
- Styling tips: Use the LOC (liquid-oil-cream) method to lock in hydration and avoid over-manipulating fragile strands.
4B: Z-Shaped Coils
Type 4B hair features sharp, Z-shaped angles rather than curved coils. It’s tightly packed, fluffier, and very prone to shrinkage and dryness.
- Best products: Rich creams, heavy leave-in conditioners, and oils like castor or avocado.
- Styling tips: Finger-detangle to minimize breakage, and twist or braid sections for defined styles and stretch.
4C: Tightest Z-Coils, Dense Texture
Type 4C hair has the tightest, most densely packed coils, often with little to no defined curl pattern. Shrinkage is significant—hair can shrink up to 75% of its true length.
- Best products: Heavy creams, thick butters, and nourishing leave-ins. Apply in generous amounts to damp hair.
- Styling tips: Gentle sectioning before detangling, regular deep conditioning, and protective styling (twists, braids, updos) to retain length and moisture.
Understanding Mixed Hair Patterns
It’s common to have a blend of curl types on different parts of your head—such as looser waves at your nape and tighter curls at your crown. Assess each section and adjust your routine accordingly. Most experts recommend layering innovative products and methods to suit each pattern.
Essential Tips for All Curl Types
- Moisture is key: Curly and coily hair is naturally drier due to the structure of the shaft, so prioritize hydrating shampoos, conditioners, and styling products.
- Minimize friction: Use a microfiber towel or a cotton T-shirt for blot-drying to reduce frizz and breakage.
- Avoid sulfates: Harsh detergents strip moisture from curls. Opt for sulfate-free formulas whenever possible.
- Use wide-tooth combs or fingers: Detangle hair gently from the ends upward to prevent damage.
- Embrace air drying or diffusing: Heat tools can compromise curl pattern and health when overused.
Best Practices for Product Selection
| Curl Type | Recommended Products | Ingredients to Look For | Ingredients to Avoid |
|---|---|---|---|
| 2A–2C | Lightweight mousses, wave sprays, sulfate-free cleansers | Aloe vera, flaxseed extract, sea salt (for definition) | Heavy oils, silicones, sulfates |
| 3A–3C | Curl creams, gels, leave-in conditioners | Shea butter, coconut oil, panthenol | Alcohol-based gels, heavy silicones |
| 4A–4C | Heavy creams, butters, nourishing oils | Castor oil, avocado oil, jojoba oil | Drying alcohols, sulfates |
Frequently Asked Questions (FAQs)
Q: Is it possible to have more than one curl type on my head?
A: Yes. Many people have mixed patterns (e.g., 2C at the nape, 3A at the crown). Tailor products and techniques to the needs of each section for best results.
Q: How often should I wash curly or coily hair?
A: Wash frequency depends on oil production and hair type. Most curly hair should be washed 1–2 times per week to avoid stripping natural oils, but individual routines will vary.
Q: What’s the quickest way to reduce frizz in wavy, curly, or coily hair?
A: Use a microfiber towel for blotting, apply leave-in conditioner to damp hair, and avoid brushing dry curls. Seal in moisture with a lightweight oil.
Q: Should I avoid brushing my curls altogether?
A: Never brush dry curls; instead, detangle in the shower with conditioner using fingers or a wide-tooth comb, working from the ends up.
Q: What is the best sleep routine to preserve my curls?
A: Use a satin or silk pillowcase and loosely tie your hair in a pineapple on top of your head. Consider wrapping with a silk scarf for added protection.
Final Thoughts: Learning to Love Every Curl
Embracing your curl pattern is about more than just aesthetics—it’s about celebrating your hair’s natural beauty and individuality. Take the time to experiment, listen to what your hair needs, and don’t hesitate to consult a curl-savvy stylist for more personalized advice. With the right routine, every type of wave, curl, and coil can look its best and stay its healthiest.
References
- https://www.cosmopolitan.com/style-beauty/beauty/a62319624/curl-types-explained/
- https://www.cosmopolitan.com/style-beauty/beauty/a34292024/curly-girl-method-how-to/
- https://www.danielgalvin.com/cosmopolitan-6-haircuts-for-curls-trends-and-tips-for-every-curl-type/
- https://behindthechair.com/articles/curl-type-4-heres-what-every-stylist-should-know/
- https://gb.readly.com/magazines/cosmopolitan-uk/2021-04-01/606200e9c6e9f8b01233f201
- https://behindthechair.com/news/cosmo-profs-world-of-texture-summit-delivers-curl-type-4-education/
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