Dermaplaning Explained: Benefits, Risks, and How It Differs from Shaving

Discover the science and secrets behind dermaplaning—from glowing skin to common risks, expert tips, and whether home shaving compares.

By Medha deb
Created on

What Is Dermaplaning?

Dermaplaning is a non-invasive cosmetic procedure performed by a dermatologist or trained aesthetician, using a scalpel to gently scrape away dead skin cells and fine facial hair (also known as peach fuzz or vellus hair), resulting in a brighter, smoother complexion. The technique acts as a turbo-charged exfoliator and can remove up to two weeks of skin build-up, with effects that often last for up to three weeks.

This skin treatment has surged in popularity, especially on platforms like TikTok (where its related hashtags have garnered billions of views). Under the expertise of dermatologists like Dr. Melissa Doft and Dr. Mona Gohara, dermaplaning is considered quick, painless, and effective when performed correctly by a professional.

Is Dermaplaning the Same as Shaving?

While dermaplaning and shaving your face may seem similar—they both remove fine, soft facial hairs—their purposes and methods differ:

  • Dermaplaning: Removes dead skin cells and peach fuzz for exfoliation; performed using a surgical-grade scalpel, typically by professionals.
  • Shaving: Removes only peach fuzz and surface hair using razors, can be done at home, but generally lacks exfoliation benefits.

Dr. Gohara warns that DIY shaving with sharp blades is risky: “Sharp blades and DIYs shouldn’t go together.” However, those with resilient, non-sensitive skin may use at-home dermaplaning blades, provided they follow instructions and avoid dull blades.

Professional vs. At-Home Dermaplaning

  • Professional dermaplaning uses medical-grade scalpels and ensures safety and efficacy.
  • At-home dermaplaning uses specially-designed razors for facial use; blades should be discarded after one or two uses to minimize bacteria and dullness.

Dermaplaning vs. Dermabrasion: What’s the Difference?

Dermaplaning is frequently confused with dermabrasion and microdermabrasion. Here’s how these treatments stack up:

TreatmentMain ToolRemoves Hair?Exfoliation Level
DermaplaningScalpelYes (Peach fuzz)Light (dead skin cells)
MicrodermabrasionMicro-crystals & suctionNoIntense (deeper skin layers)

Key takeaway: Dermaplaning excels in gentle exfoliation and hair removal, while microdermabrasion offers a deeper exfoliation but leaves facial hair intact.

Benefits of Dermaplaning

If you’re seeking brighter, softer, and smoother skin, dermaplaning is an attractive option. According to dermatologists and beauty experts, the treatment offers notable advantages:

  • Softer, smoother skin: Improved texture and radiance, immediate glow.
  • Brighter complexion: Removal of dead skin cells enhances clarity.
  • Peach-fuzz removal: Eliminates fine hair for a fresh surface.
  • Smoother makeup application: Foundation and makeup sit beautifully, reducing cakiness and patchiness.
  • Light exfoliation: Removes skin debris missed by regular home exfoliants.
  • Fades dark spots and softens fine lines: Regular treatments can lead to more even tone and softer wrinkles.

Dermaplaning is particularly favored by individuals with sun damage, fine lines, dryness, dullness, or uneven skin texture, and is helpful even for those who regularly exfoliate at home.

Risks of Dermaplaning

Despite its popularity and overall safety, dermaplaning is not without potential drawbacks, especially for vulnerable skin types or when performed incorrectly:

  • Possible irritation: Sensitive or highly reactive skin may become inflamed (including conditions like rosacea or keratosis pilaris).
  • Can aggravate active acne: Using a scalpel over breakouts may spread bacteria and trigger further inflammation.
  • Small risk of scarring: More likely if the procedure is done by untrained individuals.
  • Not suitable for everyone: Those with active breakouts, sensitive skin types, or certain dermatological conditions should avoid or consult before treatment.

If you have highly sensitive or reactive skin, dermatologists recommend alternative options like gentle chemical exfoliants (such as lactic acid or polyhydroxy acid) to smooth skin without risk of injury.

Frequently Asked Questions (FAQs)

Q: Who should avoid dermaplaning?

Individuals with inflammatory acne, rosacea, keratosis pilaris, or highly sensitive skin types should avoid dermaplaning or consult with a dermatologist first, as the procedure may worsen symptoms.

Q: Does dermaplaning hurt?

Dermaplaning is generally painless; most patients describe a mild scraping sensation but do not experience discomfort.

Q: How often should you get dermaplaning?

Results last about three weeks; treatments can be repeated monthly, depending on your skin’s tolerance and goals.

Q: Does it cause hair to grow back thicker or darker?

No. Dermaplaning does not change hair color or thickness—the hair grows back at its normal rate and texture, as it only removes surface-level vellus hair.

Q: Can you shave your face at home instead?

If you only want to remove peach fuzz and don’t have sensitive skin, you may carefully use a dermaplaning razor at home. Ensure the blade is fresh and single-use to avoid infection or dullness. However, shaving at home won’t provide the same exfoliation or glow as professional dermaplaning.

Q: How much does professional dermaplaning cost?

Cost varies widely depending on location, practitioner experience, and additional treatments. Generally, expect to pay between $75 and $150 per session in the U.S.

Expert Tips for At-Home Dermaplaning and Shaving

  • Use sterile, single-use blades designed for the face.
  • Prep skin with a gentle cleanser and pat dry before starting.
  • Hold the blade at a 45-degree angle and use short, gentle strokes—avoid pressing too hard.
  • Work in sections and avoid areas with irritation or active breakouts.
  • Immediately moisturize afterward with a hydrating serum or cream; avoid harsh actives post-procedure.
  • Discard the blade after each use to prevent bacteria and blunting.

Who Can Benefit Most from Dermaplaning?

Dermaplaning is ideal for:

  • People with dull, sun-damaged skin
  • Those with fine lines, dry patches, or uneven texture
  • Individuals wanting a smoother makeup base
  • Anyone looking to remove peach fuzz without irritation

It can be less suitable for people with sensitive or acne-prone skin, although consultation can determine if modified approaches are feasible.

Dermaplaning on Social Media

The practice of dermaplaning has exploded in online beauty communities. On TikTok, the hashtag #dermaplaning boasts over 1.8 billion views, rapidly destigmatizing facial shaving for women and normalizing the discussion of advanced skincare techniques. Beauty influencers and professionals regularly post tutorials, reviews, and before/after results, helping to educate and demystify the treatment.

Summary Table: Dermaplaning at a Glance

FeatureDermaplaningShavingMicrodermabrasion
Tool UsedScalpelRazorMicro-crystals & suction
Performed ByProfessionalAt-home (self)Professional
Removes HairYesYesNo
Exfoliation LevelLightNone-lightModerate-intense
Typical Cost/Session$75–$150$10–$25 (DIY blade packs)$100–$200

Aftercare & Skin Maintenance Post-Dermaplaning

To optimize results and minimize side effects after dermaplaning:

  • Avoid harsh exfoliants and active ingredients (retinoids, AHAs, BHAs) for 24–48 hours.
  • Use gentle, nourishing skincare—hydrating serums and creams work best.
  • Apply sunscreen diligently, as freshly exfoliated skin can be more photosensitive.
  • Monitor for redness or irritation; if symptoms persist beyond two days, consult a dermatologist.

Key Takeaways

  • Dermaplaning is a safe, popular method for exfoliating and hair removal in experienced hands.
  • It differs from shaving and microdermabrasion by combining exfoliation and peach fuzz removal with immediate cosmetic benefits.
  • It’s not suitable for every skin type; check with a dermatologist if you have active acne or sensitive skin.
  • At-home methods exist but carry more risks; professional treatment is best for assured results.

Dermaplaning FAQs

Does dermaplaning cause ingrown hairs?
No, because vellus hairs do not typically become ingrown. Ingrown hairs are more common with thicker, coarser hair that grows deeper in the follicle.
How quickly do you see results?
Immediately—the skin appears smoother and brighter after the procedure, with benefits lasting up to three weeks.
Can men dermaplane?
Yes, while more common among women, men can enjoy the exfoliating and smoothing benefits, especially for areas not typically shaved.
Will dermaplaning help with acne scars?
It can slightly soften the appearance of superficial scars, but deeper acne scars require more intensive treatments.

Final Thoughts

Dermaplaning combines immediate cosmetic improvements with gentle exfoliation and is backed by dermatologists for a wide range of skin types—just not those coping with active breakouts or intense sensitivity. If you’re considering this treatment, seek professional advice, start slow, and enjoy your radiant glow with responsible aftercare and maintenance.

Medha Deb is an editor with a master's degree in Applied Linguistics from the University of Hyderabad. She believes that her qualification has helped her develop a deep understanding of language and its application in various contexts.

Read full bio of medha deb