Calvin Klein’s Body Image Dilemma: How Fashion Ads Sparked a Cultural Reckoning
Unpacking the controversies around Calvin Klein ads, body image ideals, and cultural impact—past and present.
Calvin Klein’s Ad Campaigns: Fashion, Fame, and Fallout
Calvin Klein’s iconic advertising, famous for its minimalism and shock value, has often done more than simply sell denim and underwear. Since the late 20th century, the brand’s campaigns have provoked intense debate about body image, sexuality, and the power of fashion to shape cultural norms. These controversies—ranging from questionable depictions of youth to divisive labeling of model sizes—sparked outrage, praise, and ongoing cultural discourse around what beauty means and who gets excluded or included in those ideals.
The “Plus-Size” Model Meme: Myla Dalbesio and Calvin Klein, 2014
In 2014, Calvin Klein cast Myla Dalbesio—then a size 10—as part of their “Perfectly Fit” underwear campaign. Her size ironically landed her in the “plus-size” category according to industry standards, which at that point generally classified size 14 and up as plus-sized. The campaign generated a wave of headlines and heated debate after publications and memes began to herald Dalbesio as Calvin Klein’s “first plus-size model.” The outcry played out on social media, where many celebrated wider representation while others, notably British actress Catherine Tyldesley, condemned the label as damaging. Tyldesley’s angry tweet—”Tell me this is a joke?? PLUS size?!?! Congrats on giving another generation of girls eating disorders/insecurities.”—refueled the debate in 2016 by attaching the campaign to a widespread meme featuring Dalbesio’s ad image.
Important clarifications emerged in the aftermath:
- Calvin Klein never officially labeled Myla Dalbesio as “plus-size” in its campaign materials or press releases. The label was a media and social media construct, spotlighting how arbitrary and outdated size categories had become in the fashion world.
- Most modeling agencies at the time recognized only two categories: straight-size (sizes 0–4) and plus-size (larger, often size 14+), with little room for the majority of women who fell in between.
- Social backlash was two-sided—some praised the inclusion of a model outside traditional sample sizes, while others criticized the messaging as harmful for shaping perceptions about what qualifies as “plus-size.”
As the debate raged on, many emphasized that labeling a size 10 as plus-size sent troubling signals about body expectations, and could be linked to fostering disordered eating and body dissatisfaction in vulnerable populations.
Historical Context: Calvin Klein’s Longstanding Controversies
The 2014 incident was hardly Calvin Klein’s first brush with controversy. The label has a long—and at times notorious—history of stirring up public outrage and scrutiny over the images it chooses to market its products. Some landmark campaigns that have been central in shaping the brand’s provocative image include:
- 1980: Brooke Shields Campaign
- Brooke Shields, then only 15, appeared in skinny jeans and a provocative pose, with the tagline: “You want to know what comes between me and my Calvins? Nothing.” The commercial’s sexuality and insinuation that Shields wore no underwear caused CBS and ABC to ban the ads; some accused Calvin Klein of sexualizing minors.
- 1995: The “Porno-Style” Campaign
- Directed by Steven Meisel, this campaign featured models in a wood-paneled room, filmed in a way that was widely compared to the aesthetics of pornography. The ambiguous age of the models, paired with suggestive interviewing, sparked outrage from parents, child welfare advocates, and even President Bill Clinton, who called the ads “outrageous” and manipulative.
- The U.S. Justice Department launched an investigation but later closed it after confirming all models were adults. Nevertheless, Calvin Klein bowed to pressure and pulled the ads.
This cycle of pushing boundaries and facing backlash has been core to Calvin Klein’s public persona, solidifying its place at the center of debates on fashion, morality, and cultural standards.
Modern-Day Echoes: Double Standards in Advertising
The debates seen in 2014 resurfaced in the 2020s as major ad campaigns drew new scrutiny for their imagery and impact:
- 2023: FKA Twigs and the ASA Ban
- A Calvin Klein campaign starring FKA Twigs was banned in the U.K. after the Advertising Standards Authority (ASA) ruled the depiction—showing Twigs draped in a denim shirt with significant nudity—portrayed her as a sexual object and was inappropriate.
- FKA Twigs responded by defending her work, stating: “I do not see the ‘stereotypical sexual object’ they have labeled me. I see a beautiful strong woman of color whose incredible body has overcome more pain than you can imagine.” She called out the industry’s double standards, highlighting the ongoing praise for male-centric sexualization, such as campaigns by Jeremy Allen White.
- Kendall Jenner and Jeremy Allen White
- Kendall Jenner’s own topless Calvin Klein campaign in 2023, though sparking complaints, was not banned—fueling criticism about inconsistent standards in regulating ads, particularly in relation to gender and race.
- The furor around Jeremy Allen White’s campaign—praised for its “sex appeal”—led many observers to question why similar expressions of sexuality in female models are censured, while male models are lauded.
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These episodes expose ongoing tensions about what counts as artistic expression versus exploitation—and whether fashion’s “shock value” is simply another word for irresponsibility when it comes to reinforcing unhealthy ideals and stereotypes.
The Link Between Fashion Advertising and Eating Disorders
When fashion brands like Calvin Klein are accused of promoting unrealistically thin ideals or labeling average-sized women as “plus-size,” the stakes extend far beyond Instagram arguments. Critics argue that these campaigns can contribute to body dissatisfaction, low self-worth, and the development or exacerbation of eating disorders, especially among young, impressionable audiences.
- Eating disorders are complex, with causes ranging from genetics to environment. However, “thinspiration” in mass media is recognized as a powerful environmental trigger for those already predisposed.
- Labeling a size 10 model as “plus-size” can set the bar for “normality” dangerously low, potentially pressuring viewers to strive for unattainable body shapes.
- Outrage grows especially acute when public figures—such as Catherine Tyldesley—tie ad campaigns to the rising rates of eating disorders observed among teens and young women.
The Power of Labels and Language
Part of the criticism inherent in the plus-size label stems from how influential language in fashion advertising can be:
- Terms like “plus-size” and “straight-size” codify boundaries around what is “acceptable” or “desirable.”
- These categories often fail to reflect the diversity of shapes and sizes in the general population and can stigmatize those who do not fit within prescribed norms.
- Social media’s amplification of such terms—whether in defense or outrage—gives them staying power, making policy responses and industry changes slower than public opinion might demand.
Public Reactions and Social Media Storms
The explosive reaction to controversies like Dalbesio’s campaign underscores how quickly a debate can escalate online. What began as one tweet by Tyldesley swiftly snowballed into widespread backlash, with users:
- Condemning Calvin Klein and the broader fashion industry for “perpetuating harmful size standards.”
- Defending Dalbesio for her honesty about the impossible pressures on models.
- Questioning the role of memes and misinformation in framing public debates—the meme in question incorrectly labeled Dalbesio and continued to circulate years after the campaign itself.
This incident also demonstrated how the meaning of historical advertisements evolves as language and awareness around body size change over time. What was seen as progressive in 2014 (featuring a model larger than the runway standard) was reframed as problematic just two years later as awareness and expectations increased.
Industry Changes: Are Standards Shifting?
The pressure on fashion brands to rethink their approach to body image has brought some measured changes, but inconsistencies remain:
- Some labels have broadened casting to include more racial, size, and gender diversity, reflecting the spectrum of their clientele.
- Plus-size and “in-betweenie” categories have become more visible in mainstream campaigns, although most high-profile ads still feature conventionally thin models.
- Persistent cultural divides remain—while some consumers are more vocal in their support of body positivity, others still respond most strongly to highly sexualized or “idealized” imagery.
| Year | Model/Campaign | Controversy | Outcome |
|---|---|---|---|
| 1980 | Brooke Shields | Sexualizing minors | Ad banned, cultural outrage |
| 1995 | Steven Meisel shoot | “Porno-style,” possibly underage models | Justice Department investigation; campaign halted |
| 2014 | Myla Dalbesio | Calling size 10 “plus-size” | Social media firestorm; meme controversy |
| 2023 | FKA Twigs | Objectification; ad banned | Intensified debate over gender and race in sexualized ads |
The Celebrity Factor: Lily Collins and Personal Repercussions
The fallout from body image controversies in fashion is not merely theoretical—prominent public figures like Lily Collins, who attended a Calvin Klein runway event in 2025, have been subject to intense scrutiny over their weight and appearance. Collins, who has openly discussed her own struggles with eating disorders in a memoir, became the focus of fan concern and debate following her appearance in a sequined Calvin Klein ensemble.
- Social media users expressed concerns that Collins was dangerously thin, with some referencing her role in To The Bone, a film about anorexia based on her personal experience.
- Collins herself has regularly emphasized that recovery is ongoing and that perfection is unattainable—a counterpoint to the ideals emphasized in some fashion ads.
The presence of stars like Collins at Calvin Klein events reignites conversations about the real-world impact of fashion’s beauty standards, placing celebrities at the epicenter of a much larger cultural storm.
Frequently Asked Questions (FAQs)
Q: Did Calvin Klein officially call Myla Dalbesio “plus-size”?
A: No. Calvin Klein never officially used the term “plus-size” to describe Myla Dalbesio; this label was applied by media and social media users.
Q: Why did Calvin Klein’s 2014 campaign become so controversial?
A: The controversy erupted because media referred to the size 10 model as “plus-size,” sparking debate about body standards and the potential encouragement of eating disorders.
Q: What actions did Calvin Klein take after facing backlash in past campaigns?
A: In some cases, such as the 1995 “porno-style” ads and the 1980 Brooke Shields campaign, Calvin Klein pulled the ads or halted campaigns amid overwhelming public and regulatory criticism.
Q: How have Calvin Klein ads been linked to eating disorders?
A: Critics claim that promoting very thin models and labeling mid-sized women as “plus-size” can distort perceptions of healthy bodies and contribute to body image insecurity, which is a risk factor for eating disorders.
Q: Are things changing in the fashion industry?
A: Some brands are broadening their conceptions of beauty and diversity, but inconsistent standards and strong preferences for traditional beauty ideals remain persistent challenges.
Conclusion: The Lasting Impact of Fashion Advertising
The debate over Calvin Klein’s ad campaigns and their influence on body image and eating disorders will likely remain unresolved for years to come. What is clear, however, is that as pop culture evolves, so too do standards—and the responsibility of brands to consider the impact of their messaging. The conversation continues to shape the industry and inform future generations about what—and who—truly belongs on the world’s biggest stages.
References
- https://www.salon.com/2024/01/12/calvin-klein-controversial-ads/
- https://tribune.com.pk/story/2566591/lily-collins-new-york-fashion-week-appearance-sparks-concern-over-significant-weight-loss
- https://www.cosmopolitan.com/style-beauty/fashion/news/a60494/calvin-klein-ad-eating-disorder-contorversy/
- https://www.coursesidekick.com/communications/230552
- https://www.marca.com/en/lifestyle/celebrities/2025/09/13/68c548df22601dcd408b45b5.html
- https://www.financialexpress.com/life/entertainment-what-does-she-eat-emily-in-paris-star-lily-collins-leaves-netizens-concerned-over-unhealthy-weight-loss-3978395/
- https://www.asa.org.uk/advice-online/offence-general.html
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