Bobbi Brown’s Expert 4-Step Routine to Conceal Dark Circles
Master the art of flawless under-eye coverage with Bobbi Brown’s strategic method, from color correcting to the perfect finishing touch.
If you struggle with dark under-eye circles—whether they’re due to genetics, lack of sleep, or other factors—you’re not alone. Under-eye discoloration is one of the most common beauty concerns among people of all ages, and finding a concealer routine that delivers bright, natural-looking results (without creasing or accentuating fine lines) can feel daunting. Fortunately, makeup legend Bobbi Brown has devoted decades to perfecting the art of under-eye correction. In this guide, you’ll learn her signature, foolproof four-step method to banish darkness, brighten eyes, and look instantly refreshed.
Why Are Under-Eye Circles So Hard to Cover?
First, it’s important to understand why covering dark circles is challenging. The skin beneath our eyes is thinner and more delicate than elsewhere on the face, making discoloration—often in shades of blue, purple, brown, or gray—more pronounced. Causes range from genetics and aging to lack of sleep, allergies, and even lifestyle factors. No matter the cause, the solution requires more than just a quick swipe of concealer. As Bobbi Brown advises, the right process and products make all the difference for natural, seamless coverage **.
Bobbi Brown’s 4-Step Method to Conceal Dark Circles
Step 1: Prep Your Under-Eye Area
Hydration is key. Start by applying a lightweight, fast-absorbing eye cream to hydrate and smooth the delicate under-eye area. This creates a supple base, helping makeup glide on evenly (and preventing caking or creasing later). Use your ring finger to gently tap the cream beneath your eyes and up to the inner corners, where darkness is usually most concentrated.
- Target fine lines with formulas containing hyaluronic acid, squalane, or peptides
- Avoid heavy creams, which can cause makeup to slide or pill
- Wait a minute to let the moisturizer fully absorb
Bonus tip: If you’re over 50 or have drier skin, this step is especially crucial **.
Step 2: Color Correct the Shadows
Here’s where Bobbi’s signature move comes into play. Concealer alone typically isn’t enough, especially for darker or stubborn circles. Instead, apply a color corrector first to neutralize the undertones present in the darkness. This ensures a brighter, more even finish and prevents the gray or ashy look concealer can sometimes create.
How to Choose the Right Color Corrector
- Peach or orange correctors cancel out brown, gray, or green tones (common in medium to deep complexions)
- Pink or bisque correctors combat blue or purple undertones (often seen in lighter skin)
Bobbi Brown herself recommends her Jones Road The Neutralizer Pencil or the classic Bobbi Brown Corrector Stick—but any creamy, easy-to-blend corrector works as long as it suits your undertone.
- Apply the corrector after your eye cream and only where you see darkness
- Use a brush or fingertip to pat (not rub) corrector into the skin, focusing on the inner corner and beneath the lash line
Don’t worry if the corrector looks a bit vivid at first—concealer in the next step will tone it down.
What others are reading
| Undertone in Circles | Best Corrector Shade |
|---|---|
| Blue / Purple | Peach, Pink, or Bisque |
| Brown / Green / Gray | Peach or Orange |
Step 3: Conceal and Brighten
Now that the darkness is neutralized, use a creamy concealer to disguise any remaining discoloration and create a seamless transition between your under-eye and the rest of your face. According to Bobbi Brown, choose a shade that’s one shade lighter than your skin tone or foundation for a brightening, non-ashy effect **.
- Dot concealer under the eyes (over the corrector), concentrating first where you see darkness
- Blend with your ring finger, a brush, or a sponge, tapping gently for a smooth finish
- Bring the concealer slightly lower onto the cheek if needed, but avoid overapplying—less is more
Bobbi Brown often uses Jones Road The Face Pencil for both pinpoint concealing and blending. The creamy consistency ensures coverage without feeling or looking heavy, which is essential for preventing creasing or settling into fine lines.
Common Concealer Mistakes to Avoid
- Don’t neglect your undertone—incorrect shades can make circles more noticeable
- Avoid applying concealer to the entire undereye (just where darkness exists)
- Don’t skip prepping with moisturizer to prevent caking
Step 4: Set and Distract
Set
For most, the corrector and concealer duo is enough. But if you have oily skin, or if your under-eye makeup tends to crease or smear, set your work with a light, finely milled powder. Bobbi recommends using a powder like Jones Road’s Tinted Face Powder:
- Choose a yellow-tinted powder for tan or deeper skin, or an untinted version for fair skin
- Apply with a small fluffy brush, tapping off excess before lightly pressing into the skin (never rub)
- Be sparing—too much powder can accentuate dryness and lines
- If you’re dry-skinned, you may be able to skip this step altogether
Distract
Even when discoloration is expertly concealed, Bobbi Brown’s final recommendation is to draw the eye elsewhere—away from the under-eye area—so your face appears balanced and refreshed. Don’t be afraid to “distract” with strong, healthy-looking features.
- Fill in eyebrows: Well-groomed brows create structure and draw attention upward
- Add blush: A pop of pink on the apples of the cheeks instantly livens the face and helps you look awake and healthy
- Emphasize lips: Apply a natural lip liner or a playful gloss to bring vibrancy back to your smile, especially if your complexion has dulled due to age or fatigue
By focusing on these steps, you don’t just camouflage darkness—you highlight and restore your face’s natural harmony.
Bobbi Brown’s Recommended Products
While you can use products from any brand, Bobbi Brown recommends the following types for best results:
- Eye Cream: Hydrates and preps (look for ingredients like hyaluronic acid, shea butter, and squalane)
- Color Corrector: Cream pencil or stick, peach or pink in tone
- Concealer: Creamy, skin-like finish, a shade lighter than your foundation
- Setting Powder: Finely milled, yellow or translucent
- Blush and Lip Color: Cream or balm for a natural flush and hydrated lips
Top Tips for Flawless Under-Eye Coverage
- Layer strategically: Start thin and build as needed (it’s easier to add than remove)
- Pat, don’t rub: Use your ring finger for light pressure and minimal tugging
- Match undertone: The corrector shade should neutralize—not match—your darkness
- Let products settle: Wait 30-60 seconds after moisturizer and corrector before adding concealer or powder
- Cream over powder: Apply cream formulas before any powders to prevent caking or uneven texture
Understanding the Causes of Dark Circles
Dark circles can be stubborn due to a range of causes:
- Genetics: Some people are simply more prone to pigmentation or visible blood vessels under the eyes
- Lifestyle: Late nights, dehydration, allergies, and eye rubbing all make darkness worse
- Aging: Thinner skin and fat loss with age mean blood vessels show through more easily
- Health factors: Iron deficiency, certain medications, or underlying conditions can cause discoloration
No matter the cause, Bobbi Brown’s 4-step approach can help all skin types and tones achieve a fresher, more awake appearance.
Frequently Asked Questions About Covering Dark Circles
Do I need both a corrector and a concealer?
Yes—while concealer hides, only a corrector will neutralize the underlying color, particularly for prominent or stubborn circles **.
How do I pick the right corrector shade?
Look at the color of your circles: pink and peach neutralize blue/purple, while orange/peach tackle brown/green. Test with daylight to check your match.
What if makeup still settles into fine lines?
Use less product, ensure the skin is well-hydrated, and opt for creamy, lightweight formulas. Set sparingly with powder only if needed.
Is there a difference between covering dark circles in mature skin versus younger skin?
Drier, mature skin may need richer hydration and creamier textures. Be gentle and use minimal powder. Bobbi’s routine is adaptable for all ages **.
Can I cover dark circles without makeup?
Skincare (such as caffeine serums) can help, but for dramatic improvement, especially with hereditary circles, makeup remains the quickest fix.
Final Thoughts from Bobbi Brown
“Don’t focus too much on what you want to hide. Instead, bring attention to the beauty you want to highlight.” With this balanced approach, you can minimize darkness effortlessly and radiate natural, timeless beauty every day.
References
- https://parade.com/living/how-to-cover-dark-circles-over-50
- https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Y6yCBNY-tQk
- https://www.prevention.com/beauty/makeup/a62823913/how-to-cover-dark-circles-bobbi-brown/
- https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=W7x9iVOsSvA
- https://www.bobbibrowncosmetics.com/how-to-dark-circles
- https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=S8rk3JcXhPg
- https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IscVT7VR8iU
- https://www.bobbibrowncosmetics.com/how-to-quick-coverage
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