I Tried the American Wave: Transforming My Straight Hair with Salon Beachy Waves
Discover what happens during the American Wave salon treatment, how it differs from perms, and if beachy waves are truly worth the investment.
I Tried the American Wave: My Honest Review of This Salon Texture Treatment
For years, I envied effortlessly tousled, beachy waves but hesitated at the thought of tight, dated perms. When I discovered the American Wave—a modern, customizable texture treatment created by celebrity stylist Nick Arrojo—curiosity got the best of me. Promising soft waves that last for months and free from the telltale dryness and harshness of old-school perms, the American Wave appeared to be the holy grail for straight-haired dreamers like myself. Here’s everything you need to know before booking your appointment, from the preparation to the process, the science, and most importantly, the results.
What Is the American Wave?
The American Wave is an innovative salon treatment designed to create soft, natural-looking waves or loose curls that last about three months. Unlike traditional perms, which often result in uniform, tight ringlets and can leave hair dry or frizzy, the American Wave uses updated chemistry and flexible rods to give hair movement and texture with a more modern, “beachy” appeal.1
Invented by stylist Nick Arrojo, the service gained popularity for its ability to transform even the straightest hair into glamorous waves reminiscent of the coveted celebrity style—think Sarah Jessica Parker in Sex and the City. The treatment is odor-moderate (expect eucalyptus, not ammonia), suitable for a range of hair types, and can be tailored from ultra-beachy texture to full, defined curls.
Step-by-Step: The American Wave Experience
If you’re considering the American Wave, here’s what to expect, from consultation to that final fashionable flip:
- Consultation: Your stylist will first discuss your hair history and goals. Reference photos (celebrity styles, inspiration pics) are encouraged to ensure there’s no miscommunication about your desired wave or curl size.
- Prepping Your Hair:
- The stylist will trim any split ends, which is non-negotiable. Damaged ends don’t hold shape well and can turn frizzy post-treatment.
- If you have thick, heavy hair, some layering may be recommended—weight can hinder how well the texture forms.
- Next, your stylist will check for recent chemical processing. Bleached hair is a no-go due to higher risk of damage and uneven results, but the American Wave is generally safe for those with demi-permanent or permanent color.
- Shampoo & Condition: A thorough wash removes any buildup, creating a clean slate for the texture solution.
- Rolling & Wrapping:
- The hair is divided into medium-sized sections and wrapped around soft curl rods. The choice of rod size (from thicker for loose waves to slimmer for defined curls) determines the final result.
- The sectioning is intentionally varied and not too uniform—this creates that on-trend, “imperfectly perfect” lived-in wave rather than a grid of matching curls.
- Application of American Wave Lotion:
- The special waving lotion is applied and sets for about 20 minutes. Unlike traditional perms, this formula is thio- and ammonia-free, which means it is less harsh and leaves hair feeling soft, not straw-like.5
- Rinsing & Neutralizing:
- Once the timer is up, the stylist rinses the hair, blots it dry, and applies the neutralizer. This step sets the curl and surprisingly leaves hair smelling of eucalyptus rather than old-school chemical perm odors.
- The rods are then removed, revealing the new wave pattern.
- Styling & Reveal: To enhance the results, a stylist may diffuse or air-dry your hair, customize the part, and add finishing products for shine and hold.
How the American Wave Differs from Traditional Perms
| Feature | American Wave | Traditional Perm |
|---|---|---|
| Chemical Formula | Thio- and ammonia-free; gentler on hair | Often contains ammonium thioglycolate (can be harsh) |
| Result | Soft, natural, beachy waves or loose curls | Tight, uniform curls or ringlets |
| Odor | Mild, often eucalyptus-scented | Strong, “permy” chemical smell |
| Customization | Highly customizable; from subtle texture to full curls | Limited customization; mostly based on rod size |
| Afterfeel | Hair remains soft and touchable | Often leaves hair drier or frizzier |
Who Should (and Shouldn’t) Get the American Wave?
This treatment is best for those with healthy, non-bleached hair who want lasting texture without resorting to daily heat or styling tools. It’s ideal for:
- People with straight or slightly wavy hair craving more volume or movement
- Clients with permanent or demi-permanent color (if hair is in good condition)
- Anyone seeking “undone,” lived-in, or editorial-style waves
Avoid the service if:
- Your hair has been recently bleached—the process can be too harsh and may damage fragile strands.
- You have severe breakage or split ends throughout—in which case, a trim and healthy hair habits come first!
How Much Does the American Wave Cost?
The American Wave is considered a luxury salon service, with most prices around $400 (subject to location and stylist experience). The investment includes the full treatment and customized styling session.1
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Aftercare Dos and Don’ts: Keeping Your Waves Wandering
- Don’t Shampoo Immediately: Give your new waves at least 24-48 hours before washing, similar to a regular perm.
- Moisturize: Use sulfate-free shampoos and nourishing conditioners to maintain softness and shine.
- Styling Tips:
- Let hair air-dry or use a diffuser for the bounciest finish.
- Apply light mousse, leave-in curl cream, or sea-salt spray for definition.
- Avoid excessive brushing or heat styling, which can disrupt the wave pattern.
- Trim Regularly: Schedule trims every 8-10 weeks to keep ends healthy and prevent frizz.
Results: Life After the American Wave
Full disclosure: when my rods were removed and the final wave was revealed, I felt like I’d just stepped off a sun-soaked set. Gone were my poker-straight strands. In their place? Soft, fluffy waves reminiscent of an editorial shoot or an effortless Hamptons weekend—think Sarah Jessica Parker’s iconic hair during her Sex and the City days.
The texture looked and felt natural—there were no harsh lines or “over-processed” sections. Friends asked if I’d spent a week at the beach instead of three hours at the salon. Beyond the look, ease of styling was a revelation: a quick scrunch or twist each morning, and I was out the door. The waves lasted well over two months before they slowly relaxed, and styling reverted to my pre-treatment routine.
Pros and Cons: Is the American Wave Worth It?
| Pros | Cons |
|---|---|
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Tips for Getting the Best American Wave Experience
- Be Upfront About Your Hair History: Disclose recent coloring, lightening, or keratin treatments to avoid unexpected results.
- Bring Visual References: Celebrity images or Instagram posts help align your vision with the stylist’s approach.
- Request Layering: Light layers create more movement and support the wave formation, especially for thicker hair.
- Plan Your Timing: Don’t book a haircolor or heavy chemical service immediately before or after the American Wave.
Frequently Asked Questions About the American Wave
How long does the American Wave last?
Results typically last two to three months, depending on hair type, aftercare, and how often you wash your hair.
Is the American Wave damaging to hair?
The service is gentler than traditional perms and does not contain ammonia or harsh chemicals. However, any chemical process poses some risk, so healthy, unbleached hair is a must for optimal results.5
What do American Wave curls or waves look like?
The look is soft, modern, and textured—think lived-in, tousled, and airy rather than tight and uniform. The exact appearance will vary depending on your hair and the rod size chosen.
Can I get the American Wave if my hair is colored?
Yes, the American Wave is compatible with demi- and permanent colored hair, provided it isn’t over-processed or bleached. Always consult your stylist to assess your hair’s current state.
Is there a scent or odor after the treatment?
The American Wave’s products often leave a mild eucalyptus fragrance, avoiding the overpowering chemical smell of classic perms.1
Does the American Wave require special styling products?
While not mandatory, using curl creams, sea-salt sprays, or mousse can help maintain waves and reinforce the shape day-to-day. Lightweight, sulfate-free products are recommended.
Final Thoughts: Would I Do It Again?
For those frustrated by flat, straight hair and spending countless hours on curling irons and styling sprays, the American Wave offers a lasting, natural-looking alternative worth trying—especially if you crave that effortlessly tousled, editorial look. The price isn’t trivial, but for months of easy styling and a confidence-boosting new texture, it was a worthy investment for me. Just remember: clear consultations, honest hair history, and realistic expectations are key for a great salon experience and even better waves.
Frequently Asked Questions (FAQs)
Q: Can men get the American Wave treatment?
A: Yes, the American Wave is suitable for all genders and any hair length where the rods can be applied. Style options can be tailored to suit any client.
Q: Will my hair return to its natural state afterward?
A: The wave gradually loosens as your hair grows out and with washing, eventually returning to your pre-treatment texture.
Q: How soon before a major event should I schedule my appointment?
A: Schedule at least two weeks before any important occasion to allow the waves to settle and for you to get comfortable styling your new look.
Q: What’s the minimum hair length required?
A: Ideal results are typically seen in shoulder-length or longer hair, but consult your stylist if you have a short or layered cut to determine suitability.
Q: Can you color your hair after the American Wave?
A: It’s best to wait two to three weeks before coloring to maintain hair health and maximize your results.
References
- https://www.cosmopolitan.com/style-beauty/beauty/how-to/a10225/i-tried-it-tuesday-the-american-wave/
- https://www.cosmopolitanme.com/beauty/24004-beachy-waves-summer-hairstyle-inspo
- https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zNjLvvONX4s
- https://www.cosmopolitan.com/style-beauty/beauty/a26325865/wavy-hairstyles-how-tos/
- https://arrojonyc.com/features/2019/6/26/summer-beach-waves-amp-curls-are-easy-to-achieve-with-american-wave
- https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=s26mmR8B1OM
- https://cintaaveda.edu/blog/the-american-wave-curls-are-back/
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