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The 15% Pledge: Championing Black-Owned Brands in Fashion and Beauty

How the 15% Pledge is reshaping retail by urging major companies to dedicate shelf space and genuine investment to Black-owned brands.

By Medha deb

Created on Sep 30, 2025

How the 15% Pledge is reshaping retail by urging major companies to dedicate shelf space and genuine investment to Black-owned brands.

Since 2020, the 15% Pledge has emerged as a transformative initiative, challenging major retailers across the United States to allocate at least 15 percent of shelf space and business operations to Black-owned brands. Originating from the vision of designer Aurora James, the movement seeks to translate solidarity into sustainable and systemic economic equity. The pledge touches multiple facets of retail and impacts everything from economic opportunity to greater representation in the fashion and beauty sectors. This article explores the origins, impact, and ongoing work of the 15% Pledge, and highlights Black-owned brands and the retailers driving this change.

Why the 15% Pledge Is Important

Economic disparities and lack of representation have long affected Black-owned businesses. According to a 2020 study from the U.S. Federal Reserve, Black business owners are twice as likely to be rejected for a loan compared to their non-Black counterparts, despite Black consumer spending projected to reach $1.5 trillion by 2021. Retailers often benefit from Black communities’ purchasing power but seldom reflect them on their shelves.

Representation matters: Black people make up roughly 15% of the U.S. population, but only average around 3% of shelf space in mainstream retail outlets belonging to Black-owned brands.
Economic equity: Increasing Black-owned representation in retail translates into greater access to resources, investment, and business sustainability for those entrepreneurs.
Ripple effects: More support for Black-owned businesses fuels job creation, investment in Black communities, and broader social and economic change.

Aurora James has emphasized that dedicating a fair share of shelf space is “the least [companies] can do for us.” She calls out retailers for leveraging Black spending power and urges them to follow through with tangible, continuous support—not just statements or fleeting campaigns.

Origins and Organizing Principles of the 15% Pledge

The 15% Pledge was founded by Aurora James, designer and founder of Brother Vellies, in the wake of national protests and calls for accountability after the murder of George Floyd. In June 2020, she publicly called upon retailers—from Walmart and Whole Foods to Saks Fifth Avenue and Sephora—to commit to dedicating 15% of their inventory, shelf space, and resources to Black-owned businesses. Her request was rapidly formalized into a non-profit foundation with a clear methodology.

The number 15%: This reflects the approximate percentage of Black people in the U.S. population and serves as a tangible benchmark for representation.
Moving beyond statements: The pledge was a counter to performative solidarity; instead, it calls for measurable business action to close systemic gaps in opportunity and visibility.

Key Steps in the 15% Pledge Process

Take Stock: Retailers must assess how much business, shelf space, and supplier relationships currently feature Black-owned brands or products.
Take Ownership: Organizations should acknowledge their findings, analyze how internal blind spots and broader societal biases contribute to disparities, and openly report these insights for transparency.
Take Action: Once discrepancies are understood, businesses are expected to publish a plan for growing their share of Black-owned brands to 15% and outline strategies for accountability and ongoing progress.

Impact on the Retail Industry

By directly challenging retailers to redistribute shelf space and purchasing power, the pledge has shifted the conversation and catalyzed action. Companies are compelled not only to reconsider their sourcing practices but to also create pathways for Black entrepreneurs to access resources, mentorship, and investment opportunities.

Visibility for Black brands: Increased shelf space means increased visibility—both among consumers and within the industry.
Funding and opportunity: Major retailers’ commitments can facilitate Black-owned businesses’ access to loans, investments, and long-term growth.
Systemic change: As more companies accept the pledge, supply chains diversify, creating lasting changes in business operations.

Aurora James has highlighted how, for example, if a grocer like Whole Foods joined the pledge, it could create purchase orders that empower Black farmers, encourage banks to provide more favorable terms, and establish a model for true investment in marginalized communities.

Retailer	Actions Taken	Additional Initiatives
Sephora	Signed the 15% Pledge and refocused its Accelerate program on women of color founders.	Sephora Accelerate: Brand incubator for founders of color.
Whole Foods	Yet to formally commit, but faces ongoing pressure.	Potential positive impact on Black farmers highlighted by activists.
Target	Targeted by the Pledge but not yet publicly committed.	Growing investments in diversity, ongoing pledges.
Rent the Runway	Signed the Pledge, increasing Black-owned brand partnerships.	Diverse product showcases.
WeWoreWhat	Public commitment to the Pledge.	Influencer collaboration with Black-founded brands.

Who Has Already Taken the Pledge?

Sephora was the first major retailer to sign on, officially announcing its commitment just ten days after the pledge emerged on social media. Since then, other companies like Rent the Runway, WeWoreWhat, and various beauty retailers have joined, each setting an example for the industry.

Beauty retailers at the forefront: Besides Sephora, Bluemercury, Ulta Beauty, Macy’s, Bloomingdale’s, and Nordstrom have pledged or taken substantial steps to prioritize Black-owned brands in their product lines and company initiatives.
Programs amplifying impact: Ulta’s MUSE program and Sephora Accelerate incubator support, educate, and fund Black entrepreneurs.
Expanding beyond retailers: The pledge encourages individuals to become more intentional with their own purchases, forging accountability through petitions and conscious shopping habits.

How the 15% Pledge Works

The pledge is built on three fundamental steps, each designed to help companies incrementally shift toward equity and sustainability.

Take Stock: Examine current shelf space, supplier relationships, and sales data to identify gaps in representation.
Take Ownership: Acknowledge findings, publicly report outcomes, and address internal biases.
Take Action: Publish a growth plan for Black brand inclusion, establish transparent accountability mechanisms, and implement changes.

This model also encourages ongoing evaluation, so that practice evolves with industry shifts and social needs.

Supporting Black-Owned Brands as a Consumer

Change is not restricted only to retailers—consumers are empowered to support Black-owned brands directly. The 15% Pledge website offers a comprehensive directory of Black-owned brands across categories such as fashion, beauty, home goods, and more, allowing people to “shop their values”.

Review your personal expenses and pledge to spend 15% of your own budget on Black-owned businesses.
Sign online petitions endorsing the pledge to encourage more companies to join.
Actively share, promote, and purchase from brands prioritized by the pledge network.

Noteworthy Black-Owned Brands to Support

While the official pledge promotes countless businesses, here are several Black-owned brands that have made significant impact in the beauty and fashion landscapes:

Brother Vellies: Aurora James’s own brand, established to support traditional African design practices and bring sustainable fashion to a global stage.
Pattern Beauty: Founded by Tracee Ellis Ross, specializing in hair products for curly, coily, and textured hair types.
Fenty Beauty: Rihanna’s inclusive beauty line, now distributed through major retailers including Sephora.
Telfar: Known for its iconic shopping bags and gender-neutral fashion perspective.
Golde: Plant-based wellness products with a focus on beauty and nutrition.
Briogeo: Clean hair care driven by community, diversity, and science.

The Road Ahead: Challenges and Opportunities

Although progress is evident, the journey toward equitably supporting Black-owned businesses in retail is ongoing.

Long-term commitment: Retailers must embed 15% Pledge principles into their core operations—not just as a marketing effort, but as part of a lasting business strategy.
Overcoming systemic barriers: Persistent challenges include unequal access to funding, entrenched industry networks, and biases in consumer habits.
Consumer advocacy: Meaningful change also relies on everyday actions—intentional spending, activism, and advocacy for policies that empower Black entrepreneurs.
Transparency and accountability: Businesses must maintain rigorous self-examination and public reporting to ensure genuine progress is made.

Frequently Asked Questions (FAQs)

Q: What is the purpose of the 15% Pledge?

A: The pledge seeks to match the percentage of Black Americans in the population with equivalent representation in retail shelf space and economic opportunity, starting with 15% as the standard benchmark.

Q: How can consumers participate in the pledge?

A: Consumers can choose to spend 15% of their monthly budget with Black-owned businesses, use online directories to discover new brands, and advocate for major retailers to sign the pledge.

Q: Which companies have already joined the pledge?

A: Sephora, Rent the Runway, WeWoreWhat, and several beauty retailers such as Macy’s and Nordstrom are among the companies that have signed the 15% Pledge.

Q: What steps are involved for companies taking the pledge?

A: They ‘take stock’ of current shelf space allocation, ‘take ownership’ by reporting internal findings, and ‘take action’ by publishing and implementing a plan to reach 15% representation for Black-owned businesses.

Q: Is the pledge limited to fashion and beauty?

A: No. While fashion and beauty sectors are primary, the pledge aims to extend the commitment to all retail industries and consumer categories.

Conclusion: The Lasting Legacy of the 15% Pledge

The 15% Pledge represents a pivotal shift in how the fashion and beauty industries approach diversity, equity, and inclusion. By binding major retailers to measurable commitments, amplifying Black entrepreneurship, and fostering consumer activism, the pledge continues to drive meaningful progress toward racial justice in business. As more companies join and more individuals support Black-owned brands, the impact will ripple across communities, inspiring future generations of entrepreneurs and reshaping retail for the better.

References

Author

medha deb

Medha Deb is an editor with a master's degree in Applied Linguistics from the University of Hyderabad. She believes that her qualification has helped her develop a deep understanding of language and its application in various contexts.

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